This Breathtaking Scenic Drive Is A Midwestern Escape With Abandoned Mines, Great Lakes Views, And Outdoor Fun
Before the California Gold Rush, there was a mineral boom that brought thousands of people to Michigan's Upper Peninsula in search of silver, iron, and copper. The Keweenaw Peninsula was particularly abundant in copper, with the mines operating for around 150 years, pulling 12 billion pounds of the metal and giving the area its "Copper Country" nickname. And one great way to get a feel for the history and nature of Michigan's northernmost tip is to drive the Copper Country Trail National Scenic Byway. The route is 47 miles long and goes from the Portage Lake Lift Bridge to the village of Copper Harbor, offering historic sites, world-class nature, and Lake Superior vistas along the way.
As the Copper Country Scenic Byway weaves through the thick northern forests, it passes numerous museums and retired mines that let visitors tour dark mine shafts. Small towns and tiny hamlets also line the way, some built by the mining companies themselves. And, of course, Lake Superior beckons on three sides of the Keweenaw Peninsula, with sandy beaches, roadside parks on the volcanic shores, and unmatched Great Lakes vibes.
The Keweenaw Peninsula is in Michigan, but it's quite a ways away from the state's population centers. Green Bay is the closest bigger city, a four-hour drive south, and Chicago is six-and-a-half hours away. In other words, it's a proper escape from city life. For overnight stays, hotels are easy to find in the many towns in the region, while campgrounds and rental cabins dot the peninsula. Once there, it's all about choosing which of the dozens of heritage sites along the byway to visit and what outdoor activity you're looking for.
Mines, museums, and history along the Copper Country Scenic Byway
Mere minutes from the start of the byway is the Quincy Mine in Hancock. The mine operated for 99 years and was nicknamed "Old Reliable" due to its steady production. Its No. 2 shaft was once the deepest in the world, descending an incredible 9,000 feet, while its steam hoist (pictured above) was also the world's largest. These days, the mine is a National Historic Landmark and is operated by the Quincy Mine Hoist Association. Visitors can take guided tours that start at the Hoist House, before taking a tram downhill to a horizontal tunnel and into the chilly mine. It's around 43 degrees, so layers are recommended, and tours can be booked online.
Continuing north on the byway for 10 miles, you'll reach Calumet, a once-thriving copper town now full of local flair. Its historic 5th Street is lined with old brick buildings, gift shops, cafes, and the Calumet Visitor Center. It's a free museum with two floors of exhibits on the area's mining history. Its location also makes it a great spot to grab a cup of coffee afterward and wander the historic central blocks — maybe popping by Shute's 1890 Saloon just three blocks away.
For a self-guided mine tour along the byway, the Delaware Mine is 30 minutes from Calumet. The mine operated for only 40 years, closing in 1887, but the remnants are still there. Visitors can check out the building ruins, mining equipment, and walking trails above ground before strolling into a shaft 100 feet below the surface. A further 12 miles along US-41, which itself is a veritable tunnel of leafy trees, and you reach the end of the byway at Copper Harbor, an underrated Michigan town hidden on Lake Superior's shores.
Beaches and outdoor fun along the way
The heritage sites along the Copper Country National Scenic Byway are informative time capsules worth exploring, but a visit to the Keweenaw isn't complete without getting into nature and enjoying Lake Superior. Quaint towns with water fun bookend the scenic byway, starting just off the Portage Lake Lift Bridge in Houghton, a historic gem with a bustling downtown. There you'll find breweries, cozy restaurants, a long walking path along the water, and a city park where you can rent paddleboards to cruise the Portage Canal.
At the other end of the byway is the aforementioned lakeside town of Copper Harbor. Millions of dollars have been invested in recent decades to turn Copper Harbor into a mountain biking mecca, with more than 60 miles of trails weaving through the forests and down hills overlooking Lake Superior. The town also has plenty of quiet hiking trails and kayak rentals, so you can get out and paddle the volcanic shoreline.
While the Copper Country National Scenic Byway technically goes through the center of the Keweenaw Peninsula, Lake Superior is never far away. Alternative "spur routes" branch off the byway to the eastern and western shores, featuring other quaint villages and stunning beaches. The eastern route passes through the town of Lake Linden and then leads to sandy oases like Brunette Park (pictured above) and the beach at Bete Grise. On the western side of the peninsula, Highway M-26 links to the byway near the Phoenix Church and passes lakefront villages, roadside parks perched atop the rocky shore, and the long beach at Great Sand Bay. That route then leads back to Copper Harbor at the top of the peninsula and the main vein of the historic byway.