Vermont's Lake-Country Gem Is A Small Town By Canada's Border With Idyllic Nature, Trails, And Local Eats

Each day, thousands of drivers cross between Canada and northern Vermont at a port of entry known as Derby Line. Most people arrive here by car, bombing through town without having any sense of where they are. "Derby" consists of a checkpoint and inspection station, where travelers try to spend as little time as possible. If they do stop, they're likely to visit the Haskell Free Library, a century-old structure that stands directly on the U.S.-Canadian border; this institution has books in French and English, bilingual staff, and two separate entrances. Take a few extra paces and you technically leave Derby and enter Stanstead, a town on the southern edge of Quebec.

But there's more to Derby than border guards. The town (with a population of roughly 4,500 people) is surprisingly large, taking up nearly 50 square miles of land. This quiet community is sometimes overshadowed by Newport, a popular destination right next door, but some things tourists associate with Newport are actually in Derby, such as miles of the eastern shore of Lake Memphremagog and most of the Newport Bike Path. Derby lies in the Northeast Kingdom, a distinctive rural region covering one-fifth of the state, and Memphremagog is only one of its 200 lakes and ponds.

If you're on a Vermont road trip in search of year-round scenic views and small-town stops, Derby's trails and natural spaces are worth a visit — especially if you're also headed to Canada. Dozens of birds species have been spotted in the area, including egrets and ospreys, and visitors may encounter moose and black bears as well.

The village of Derby Line has a small constellation of businesses, and the architecture on Main Street looks almost unchanged over the past century. The library is the most notable landmark along the border, and its atmosphere of cultural goodwill has attracted a lot of attention in recent years. But if you're spending any time in Derby, head south to the village of Derby Center.

In Derby you'll find a handful of local restaurants, such as the Derby Cow Palace, a steakhouse that also serves buffalo burgers and elk medallions. The Cow Palace wins points for decor, with its full-sized taxidermy animals and chandeliers fashioned from antlers. Another popular spot is Vermont Pie & Pasta Company, a cozy pub that slings craft beer and wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas; with its proximity to Canada, you bet they serve poutine. Sports fans can pull up a stool and catch games on three widescreen TVs. Finally, there's Tin Shed Grill, a humble snack shack that serves up burgers and tacos from its service window. On pleasant days, sit at a picnic table and enjoy the town's low-key atmosphere.

Lake Memphremagog (pictured below) is a beautiful body of water that's beloved in both Vermont and Quebec, and one of the best ways to enjoy it is along the Newport Bike Path. This 6-mile rail trail is partly paved and partly dirt, and it's designed for cyclists, walkers, runners, and — after a good Vermont snowfall — cross-country skiers. Nearby is Memphremagog Trails, a mountain bike park with well-developed jumps and berms; operated by a local nonprofit, this trail system is tied to Newport but is geographically located in Derby. These are a nice complement to New England's Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, running 93 miles through wildly charming towns.

The Northeast Kingdom is known for its isolation, and Derby fits that profile: The only realistic way to get here is by car. The drive from Boston is well over three hours, and even Burlington (Vermont's largest city) requires a good two-hour drive. Derby is actually more convenient to reach from the Eastern Townships of Quebec, which begin just beyond the border and encompass 117 distinct municipalities. 

If you're splurging, consider a stay at the Derby Line Village Inn, a stately bed and breakfast that stands just a stone's throw from the border; the Victorian-style rooms have canopy beds and fireplaces and cost about $200 per night. For something a little more functional, the Border Motel has basic rooms, an on-site lounge, and a Chinese restaurant. Perhaps the most Vermont-y lodging is the White Birch Lakeside Retreat, a robust log cabin with two units, located right next to Lake Memphremagog. With its outdoor fun and clean air, it's little wonder Vermont is an East Coast state top-rated for healthy living.