Forget Cape Cod, Visit This Less-Crowded East Coast Escape With Fresh Seafood, State Park Fun, And Beaches
Let's be clear: Cape Cod is wonderful. If you have a thing for beaches and seafood, you'll love this hook-shaped peninsula on the southeast corner of Massachusetts. I've enjoyed whale watching in the bay, cycling down its 26-mile-long rail trail, and browsing local antique shops. I can get in my car in Providence and drive to the Cape Cod Canal in about an hour. I have many fond memories from my time here.
But after eight years in Rhode Island — right next door — I rarely see the Cape, because I can just visit Washington County instead. Occupying the southwest quarter of Rhode Island, Washington County is closer to me, generally cheaper than the Cape, and much less crowded. Restaurants, groceries, and transport all cost less here than in Massachusetts. Rhode Island may be the smallest state, but this one county has an enormous amount of coastline, including roughly 20 public beaches. Many of the towns are divided into smaller villages, and no two are the same. Even after driving these roads hundreds of times, I'm always astonished by how vast and dynamic the landscape seems. And the local parks are among my favorites in the country.
Before you visit, though, forget this "Washington County" nonsense. Locals know this area as "South County," a nickname so universal that they should really just make it official. This state has five counties in all, each with its own highlights, but South County is arguably the pinnacle of Rhode Island hospitality, especially in the warmer months. Narragansett alone is one of the best beach towns in America, and that's just for starters.
Things to do in southwest Rhode Island
Narragansett is the logical place to start. This town has attracted tourists since the mid-19th century, and Narragansett Town Beach is arguably the most famous stretch of sand in the state. The town's most iconic landmark is The Towers, a medieval-looking stone structure with turrets and an archway over the main road. It is also all that remains of the Narragansett Pier Casino. This is a popular event space, with its image printed on thousands of T-shirts, postcards, and calendars.
The town has a handful of quality seafood restaurants, and one of the most famous is The Coast Guard House, whose coastal location offers romantic views of the water. I could eat fresh oysters here all day, and the lobster ravioli is to die for. You'll find scads of other seafood places along the coast. Another famous destination (and personal favorite) is George's of Galilee, a casual, multi-level dining complex that stands right next to a fleet of fishing boats, so you know the catch is fresh. George's stands right next to Salty Brine State Beach, named after the famous local broadcaster Walter "Salty" Brine. It's also steps from the Block Island Ferry, which will take you to the relaxing, walkable island of the same name, home to fantastic beaches and local cuisine (and is also technically part of Washington County).
One of the area's less celebrated amenities is its parks. Ninigret Park in nearby Charlestown is a magical destination, thanks to its former World War II-era naval airfield, public star-gazing at the Frosty Drew Observatory, and giant troll sculptures by the Danish artist Thomas Dambo. A few miles north, you can lose yourself among the 3,100 wooded acres of Burlingame State Park, the largest in the Ocean State, and camp out there as well.
Getting to Washington County and where to stay
Washington County is also convenient for many road-trippers in Southern New England. Interstate 95 runs straight through the county, which connects you easily to the Boston-to-New York City highway corridor. The adorable town of Westerly, located in the state's southwest corner, sits right on the Connecticut border, a short distance from major destinations in the Constitution State, such as Olde Mistick Village and the Mohegan Sun casino.
Washington County has another advantage over Cape Cod: Amtrak. It's true that the Cape has the CapeFLYER line, which runs from Boston to Hyannis (and is wicked fun), but it is seasonal and only operates on weekends. If you're like me and look for any excuse to travel by train, you can take the Northeast Regional train to Westerly or the college town of Kingston. There are multiple trains a day year-round.
Washington County is filled with accommodations, and I'm partial to The Break Hotel in Narragansett, with its rooftop restaurant (Chair 5) and quiet location on the town's outskirts. The most resplendent destination is Ocean House, a historic, five-star luxury hotel with a manicured estate, ocean views, and a beloved wellness center. It stands in Watch Hill, a chic, picturesque beach paradise that might just be Rhode Island's most charming seaside neighborhood. Would I take Watch Hill over the Cape? Most days, yes. And so would Taylor Swift, who has a $17.75 million mansion there.