Between Montreal And The US Border Is Quebec's City With A Vibrant Culture, History, And Tasty Eats

All year long, U.S. school groups and weekenders drive up to Montreal and Quebec City in search of art, history, and great French cuisine. They cruise down the highway, barely paying attention to the scenery, in the hopes of crossing the St. Lawrence River and checking into their "auberges" (inn or hostel) before nightfall. The rural miles of Quebec are reduced to a blur beyond their windshields, and they barely notice they've driven by Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, a river town of about 100,000 residents.

With its flat horizon and gridded blocks, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu could easily be mistaken for a city in the American Midwest. Settlement began in the 17th century, and the location became an industrial boomtown during the 1800s, thanks to a combination of canals and railways. The name comes from St. John, and the "sur Richelieu" refers to its standing astride the Richelieu River, an important waterway that flows about 80 miles through the province.

Today, a visit to Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu is a surprising pleasure — it can't compete with Quebec's more famous cities, but you will find a sizable Old Town (known as Vieux-Saint-Jean) and an impressive dining scene. This area is home to delectable eats and a surprising window to Québécois history. If you have a sweet tooth, Quebec is also known as the "Maple Syrup Capital of the World," and since Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu is one of the province's most urban hubs, it shouldn't be difficult to find something tasty.

You might expect to find a trendy place like Lagabière Brasserie Artisanale, with its diverse selection of craft beers and beautifully presented pub dishes, in downtown Montreal; yet here it is, in the very middle of Vieux-Saint-Jean. With its colorful interior and ample outdoor patio (for the warmer months), Lagabière demonstrates the type of satisfying gastronomic experiences available in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu. You'll find lots of other quality European fare in town, along with global flavors: Cuisine Bombay Indienne serves South Asian favorites. "Excellent food, good prices and portions as well," reads a review on Yelp. "I had the lamb vindaloo, and they accommodated my request to have it very spicy... Will definitely be stopping here in the future."

There's history in town, too. Fort Saint-Jean is a stone structure standing just south of downtown, and it now serves as part of the campus of the Royal Military College. But don't let these peaceful environs deceive you – the on-site museum tells of a dramatic past. A strategic stronghold was built in 1666. Nearly a century later, Benedict Arnold attacked the fort during the American Revolution, and it was later the subject of a prolonged siege. The museum is free to enter and houses historic artifacts and illustrative exhibits. You could easily add Quebec's startling role in U.S. history to a list of the biggest things that surprise Americans visiting Canada.

The town's most unusual cultural event is its International de Montgolfières (Hot Air Balloons International), which takes place each August. This is the largest such festival in Canada, with nearly 100 individual balloons, and aeronauts come from around the world to participate. The event doubles as an arts and music festival, with a busy concert lineup and a carnival atmosphere. Locals wait all year to see the skies fill up with colorful teardrops.

Most visitors will arrive in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu by car. Canada's ViaRail network is a blessing for many riders, but the town doesn't have its own train station. Bus service is also complicated in Quebec, and although you can technically get here on mass transit from Montreal, it's much more likely that you'll make Saint-Jean a stop on your road trip, a drive that should take you less than an hour from downtown. There's plenty of street parking, much of which is free.

The closer you can stay to Vieux-Saint-Jean — and, specifically, the historic commercial district of Rue Richelieu — the better. The city only has a handful of hotels, and you can usually snag a room for around $100 (USD) per night. With the exception of major holidays and events, staying in this easygoing small city isn't very competitive, so you shouldn't have to stress about far-in-advance reservations. Because of its location, Saint-Jean makes for a convenient (and affordable) stopover between the U.S. border and Montreal. If you're not in a hurry and looking for other places to explore along this corridor, Canada's "Tourist Wonder," with gorges, river trails, and waterfalls, is right across the border from Vermont.