Forget Cape Cod, Visit This Less-Crowded Connecticut Gem With New England Charm, State Parks, And Beaches

In the middle of New London, Connecticut, is a full-sized sculpture of a whale's tail. Created by artist Alan Cottrill, this realistic bronze figure depicts a rear fin — or fluke — rising out of the paving stones in the town's Parade Plaza. The artwork is officially known as the Whale-Tail-Fountain, because it's more than just a giant metal facsimile: Water pours over its top and showers over the ground, replicating an actual diving whale. This dynamic addition to New London recalls the region's history as a mariners' hub. The town was once the second largest whaling port in the world, and it's just one part of New London County.

In addition to the county's namesake, there's Mystic — the popular coastal town that's a laidback destination for every season. Today, New London County is a place for coastal vacations, with its network of state parks and beaches. This is a land of parks, coves, sandy stretches, and lighthouses — all hallmarks of the coastal New England experience.

In almost every way, New London County is an attractive alternative to Cape Cod, Massachusetts. The Cape will always be the reigning champion of oceanic tourism in the northeast, but this Connecticut county has many perks: It's less crowded, more affordable, and, for many travelers, easier to get to than similar communities like Falmouth and Provincetown. Plus, New London has an impressive number of cultural institutions that don't have equivalents in the Cape.

The county's namesake is the town of New London. Here, the old port has been revitalized for tourists: New London Waterfront Park is one of many peaceful public spaces that lie along the town's harbor. Industrial sections have been transformed into a scenic walkway, which skirts the seashore for about a mile. Nearby, Shaw's Cove Railroad Bridge is a steel swing bridge that still rotates to make way for passing watercraft. A little farther south, you'll find Fort Trumbull State Park, the setting for a powerhouse fortification with high walls and antique artillery on display. The high-standing site affords glorious views of the water and passing sailboats, along with a boardwalk and fishing pier. 

A hidden gem is Bluff Point, a state park that covers more than 800 acres of seaside woodland in the town of Groton. Here you'll find several miles of gravel trails, where hikers can lose themselves in the woods, and mountain bikers can enjoy some gentle terrain with blessedly few roots or rocks. On the western edge is a sandy stretch, with picnic tables and scenic views of the water. A "tombolo," or sand spit, crosses the Poquonnock River, minus a small section in the middle. These scraggly dunes are a pleasure to walk across, and you can spot planes taking off from the adjacent airport.

For vacation-ready swimming and sunbathing, head to Ocean Beach. Here, summers are busy with concerts, weddings, retail, and cultural events. The energetic carnival atmosphere has attracted sun-seekers since the 1940s, and it has earned high praise from National Geographic and Travel + Leisure, easily rivaling the 5 best beaches in nearby Massachusetts. Still, only about 500,000 people come to Ocean Beach each year, far less than the millions who pour into Cape Cod. 

New London County is extremely well connected to other Northeast destinations: Interstate 95 runs right through the area. This access to the interstate means you can drive directly to New York or Boston, along with countless other communities along the Eastern Seaboard. Meanwhile, both New London's Union Station and the train station in Mystic are stops on the Amtrak route between New York and Boston, and the Northeast Regional train comes through here several times per day. This route is convenient enough to make New London County a worthy day trip from places like New Haven and Providence, and some Amtrak fares between East Coast cities are comparable to a drink at Starbucks (although exact prices can vary widely).

You'll also find plenty of places to stay. The county map is splattered with hotels, especially in the suburbs around the town of New London and the heart of Mystic. Prices are all over the board, but you can generally expect Cape Cod prices to be higher, especially in summer. New London County also has a well-developed mass transit system, in the form of the Southeast Area Transit District, so unlike most of the Cape, you can conceivably get away with visiting without a car.