Japan's 'Miniature Garden City' Is A Seaside Gem With A Trendy Food Scene, Picturesque Temples, And Mountain Views

Onomichi overlooks the Onomichi Channel in the Seto Inland Sea, less than an hour from Hiroshima by train. The quaint city grew around its port and ship building. The wealth from that industry funded temples and lovely gardens, most of which are landscaped into leafy hills or packed between old lanes, looking out over the water. The picturesque result is what gained Onomichi its nickname, "miniature garden city."  

Film fans may recognize the city from Yasujiro Ozu's 1953 classic drama, "Tokyo Story." Onomichi is the home of the elderly couple the movie centers around, so some scenes were shot there. Honestly, it doesn't feel like the city has changed much since that movie was filmed –- it's got a definite time warp feel, like a love letter to Japan of old. Gentrification and mass tourism haven't caught on, and we love it for that.

Many visitors are cyclists, as Onomichi is the starting point for the Shimanami Kaido, a cycling route that crosses the Seto Inland Sea toward Shikoku Island. But even if you're not a cyclist, Onomichi is worth spending some days in, as it's a laidback spot and an enjoyably walkable city where history, nature, and everyday life blend seamlessly. Miyajima, the mystical Japanese island, is a short boat ride away in the Seto Inland Sea.

Onomichi's food scene starts with ramen, but there's more going on than its noodle soup. Sure, it's no Osaka, which is nicknamed "Japan's kitchen," or Hiroshima, in terms of choice. Those cities are huge in comparison but the quality holds up in Onomichi, which is on gastro trend. You can't visit Onomichi without trying its take on okonomiyaki, the savory pancake that is a staple in the Hiroshima region. Try Murakami for its oyster okonomiyaki, cooked in front of diners on a hotplate.

About that ramen though. Onomichi's version uses a soy-based broth, small fish from the Seto Inland Sea, and pork back fat, infusing the bowl with flavor without being too heavy. To try this local classic, head to ramen specialists Maruboshi, near the waterfront. It's a cheap yet revered hole-in-the-wall spot that's so serious about its noodle soup, it's even competed in Japanese TV shows.

Of course, seafood is another reason to eat your way around the city. The Seto Inland Sea supplies local restaurants with fish, sardines, and oysters – Onomichi Yokocho is the place to try oysters and sashimi. Citrus fruit grown on the islands around Onomichi turns up in everything from drinks to desserts, while the arcade-like shopping streets are good for picking up street food snacks as you wander.

For the best intro to Onomichi, head up Mount Senkoji. You can take a ropeway (aka a cable car) to the top if you're not fazed by heights. You may wish to take your hiking boots as the short hike up is also fun — just avoid the summer heat, rain, and humidity. You can't beat the serotonin wins and it's a scenic route — the path winds past lanes and temples, with the city appearing smaller as you glimpse it between houses as you climb. At the summit, Senkoji Temple is nestled among rocks in the aptly-named Senkoji Park. It's the city's go-to spot during cherry blossom season in spring but you can absorb its panoramic views across Onomichi Channel any day of the year.

Coming back down, follow the Path of Literature, where stones carry inscriptions from writers and poets associated with Onomichi. It's no Philosopher's Path like in Kyoto, but at least you won't be disappointed by crowds. We prefer destinations that are off the beaten path in Japan, and Onomichi is perfect for that. Wander its narrow lanes toward the waterfront or do a DIY walking tour of its Seven Temples route. Film buffs might want to check out Onomichi Motion Picture Museum, as it's full of retro filming equipment and movie paraphernalia. For something more contemporary, visit Onomichi City Museum of Art, which is home to modern works by Japanese and French artists. Alternatively, simply sit by the channel and watch ferries cross the sea. Onomichi is a place where there's no need to rush.