An Hour From Cardiff Is A Market Town Inside A National Park With Quaint Shops And An Award-Winning High Street
Wales is a country of castles and coastlines, historic villages and charming hospitality. Its capital city, Cardiff, received more than 18 million visitors in 2025 according to Visit Cardiff. But how many of them explored farther afield? Doing so reveals much more of the country, including its idyllic towns and vast national parks. You can combine both in Crickhowell (Crug Hywel in Welsh), as it sits on the border of Brecon Beacons National Park, an hour's drive north of Cardiff.
Crickhowell is thought to have originated in the 12th or 13th century. You can feel its rich history as you enter from the south, crossing the tree-fringed River Usk over Crickhowell Bridge, Wales' longest stone bridge, which was built in 1706. The structure is less than 10 minutes' walk from downtown, which centers around a pretty main street. It's the heart of Crickhowell and an enduring reminder of what makes it such an inviting market town.
Crickhowell: The gateway to Brecon Beacons National Park
Crickhowell's location inside Brecon Beacons National Park makes it an ideal launchpad for stargazing and exploring the remote Welsh park's wild beauty. Technically, exploring the town means you're exploring the national park. Start at the CRiC information center to learn more about the area, browse local art exhibits, and grab walking maps.
From CRiC, you can visit two of Crickhowell's most historic sites within a 10-minute walk. St Edmund's Church dates back to the 14th century and still has its original spire and holds a Sunday service. The 12th-century Crickhowell Castle (aka Alisby's Castle) was rebuilt in the 13th and 15th centuries. Only the ruins remain, but you can still learn about it via informative plaques and admire countryside and town views from its hilltop perch next to a cricket ground.
The town's sights are great but it's a waste not to get out into the countryside, too. That is where the surrounding Usk Valley reveals its natural beauty, from the Black Mountains to riverside walks. If you're chasing mountain views, hike the challenging Crickhowell to Table Mountain route. The 4.5-mile loop takes about three hours and takes in the top of Table Mountain. From there you can admire the town, fortification ruins, Usk Valley forests and rivers, and the Black Mountains. You can also walk from Crickhowell to Llangynidr, a small section of the Beacons Way trail. It's about 12 miles one way and includes strolling beside the River Usk, across open hills, and above the Ice Age-formed Llangorse Lake. You can catch the No. 43 bus back to Crickhowell after crossing an ancient stone bridge into Llangynidr. If you want to add some gorgeous Welsh coastal scenes into the mix, you could also drive 1.5 hours to Three Cliffs Bay's dramatic landscapes and golden sand dunes.
Wonderfully local shopping on Crickhowell's High Street
In 2018, Crickhowell High Street won the Great British High Street Award for the U.K. and Wales. It was a big moment for the community, which has 2,000-odd residents according to City Population. Back then, High Street only had independent shops. Today, you'll find some major retailers, such as Co-op and Asda, down one end. However, the heart of High Street is still dominated by local stores such as Book-ish, a beloved bookshop and café that hosts author readings, too. Its owner, Emma Cornfield Walters, also won a High Street Hero award in the same competition in 2018. She's still running the shop, which has become a cultural hub that's collected multiple Bookshop Of The Year titles at The British Book Awards.
Part of High Street's appeal is its Georgian architecture. Many of its historic buildings now house local businesses. Natural Weigh was one of the county's first zero-waste stores. It sells a range of food, from dried fruit and pasta to candy and nuts. You can also find jewelry and plastic-free kitchen, bathroom, and household products. Hikers may want to pop into Crickhowell Adventure before they hit the trails. The outdoor clothing and accessories store has been part of the community since the 1970s. It sells hiking clothes and footwear and camping gear such as tents and backpacks.
If you don't have a car, you can catch a train and bus from Cardiff to Crickhowell in about 1.5 hours. Cardiff is also an underrated gem with historic castles, museums, and galleries, so don't rush off to Crickhowell as soon as you arrive. Crickhowell only has two accommodations: The Bear Hotel is a 15th-century coaching inn, while The Dragon Inn is a historic hotel, restaurant, and pub with a grassy beer garden with Table Mountain views.