Between Newcastle Upon Tyne And Middlesbrough Is A Medieval City With A Castle, Gardens, And River Views

Less than 20 miles south of Newcastle upon Tyne, the medieval city of Durham makes a great base for a weekend in northeastern England. With its ancient castle, riverside walk, and tranquil gardens, Durham has plenty to offer visitors interested in British history and nature. I lived in Durham for three years as a student at the university, and later got married in the castle, so I know the city very well. Here, I'll share my top recommendations of things to do in Durham to help you plan your visit.

Durham is a city steeped in history. Built around the cathedral, the medieval settlement was the burial place of Saint Cuthbert, making it a popular pilgrimage site through the ages. The central cobblestone streets and heritage buildings feel little changed over time, and it's a place where you get a real sense of the past. Standing tall on Palace Green in the heart of town, Durham Cathedral is one of the main draws for visitors. You might recognize the cloisters from the "Harry Potter" films, as they were used as a filming location for Hogwarts.

One of my favorite things to do in Durham is the Riverside Walk. This 3-mile scenic trail circumnavigates the city's central peninsula, which is surrounded on three sides by the River Wear. It's a peaceful route and takes up to an hour-and-a-half to complete. You'll pass university boat houses, The Count's House folly, and several historic bridges which make great vantage points for photos. I think the view from Prebends Bridge is best, overlooking the river with Durham Cathedral in the background. After your walk, hire a wooden boat from Brown's Rowing Boats, or enjoy a ride on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser. On board, the views across the river to the cathedral and castle are stunning. 

Sitting in the center of the city, Durham Castle is prominently positioned, overlooking the cathedral and the River Wear. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site along with the cathedral in 1986, the Norman fortress was built by order of William the Conqueror in the 11th century. It was later the seat of power for the Prince-Bishops of Durham. The castle has played host to kings, been used as a hospital for wounded soldiers, and became a training site for Royal Air Force officers during World War II.

Now used as a college by Durham University, the castle is home to students during term time. It's where I lived during my years in the city, and I think it's one of the most beautiful universities in Europe. During the holidays, visitors can stay in the castle, eating breakfast in the Great Hall and enjoying exclusive access to parts of this ancient monument. I recommend booking the luxurious Bishop's Suite for an upscale stay, or a room in the keep for views of the River Wear or Durham Cathedral from your window.

If you don't want to stay overnight, you can still visit Durham Castle on a guided tour — these are often led by students in term time. You'll get to see the wood-paneled Great Hall, the supposedly haunted Black Staircase, and the Tunstall Gallery, where you'll find Bishop Van Mildert's throne and artifacts like weapons and saddles. The castle also has two chapels, one of which dates to Norman times, and both are still used for services. As a working college, the castle isn't open every day, so be sure to check the website before you visit. Self-guided tours are available in summer if you prefer to explore independently. For a similar experience, Cambridge — one of the prettiest cities in England — is also known for its medieval streets, riverside walks, and historic buildings. 

Once you've had your fill of medieval streets, head to some of Durham's gardens for a relaxing stroll surrounded by nature. Founded in 1925 as a scientific experiment in the south of the city, Durham University Botanic Garden is one of my top recommendations, with its mature woodlands and exotic plant collections from around the world. Don't miss the Cactus House, where you'll be transported to the deserts of Mexico and Brazil, or pop into the bug glasshouse if you want to see scorpions and tarantulas up close. As you wander through the gardens, you'll come across unique artworks, each designed to complement the natural environment.

Meanwhile, on the grounds of a medieval hall to the north of Durham, a series of secluded gardens offers a tranquil respite from the city bustle. Crook Hall Gardens is a haven for wildlife, and you'll find the walled gardens and orchard buzzing with insects during summer. It's a pretty place, perhaps even rivaling some of the most gorgeous gardens down in London. There's a living maze too, which looks spectacular in fall when the red berries are ripe. The gardens are open every day, with guided tours available on Wednesdays.

Just 5 miles to the east of Durham's city center, Ushaw Historic House sits in rolling parkland with extensive formal gardens to explore. Formed by a secret religious community over 200 years ago, Ushaw is now a unique heritage attraction, with a historic house, several chapels, and a world-renowned library to discover. Outside, the gardens have been restored to how they would have looked in Victorian times, with unusual tree species like monkey puzzle and purple beech. Come between May and June when the rhododendrons are in bloom, and see if you can spot the wildlife carvings hidden throughout the grounds.