Canada's Paddle-In Gulf Island Retreat Is A Remote Hideaway With Idyllic Nature, Camping, And A Coastal Trail

Just off the southeastern coast of Vancouver Island, a tiny Canadian island offers an escape that requires a little more effort to reach. Part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, Isle-de-Lis lies in the Haro Strait east of Sidney, British Columbia, surrounded by the waters of the Gulf Islands. Less than a mile from the U.S.-Canada border, this is one of the Gulf Islands' least visited islands. There are no roads, ferries, or airports here since visitors arrive only via boat. Popular with kayakers, especially those partaking in multi-day kayak trips, the island's proximity to Vancouver Island also makes it an excellent day trip for paddlers.

The island's approximately 12 acres (5 hectares) are covered in Douglas fir and arbutus forest with coastal cliffs on the exposed windward side. One will also find Mediterranean-like vegetation here, such as prickly pear cactus, a result of the warm coastal climate. An easy 0.8-mile coastal trail that circles the island and provides views of the surrounding Haro Strait and a chance to take in its rugged shoreline. The protected land and waters of the Gulf Islands National Park reserve provide ample wildlife viewing opportunities. Whether paddling or hiking onshore, keep an eye out for seals, otters, and eagles. Notably, orca sightings are possible here as the area provides critical year-round habitat to the Southern Resident Killer Whales, an endangered population of orcas.

An overnight stay at Isle-de-Lis is best suited for visitors looking for a rustic camping experience. Kayakers and boaters can land their watercraft at the gravel beach connecting Isle-de-Lis to the neighboring, privately-owned Gooch Island. This island offers three primitive campsites and pit toilets, though visitors will need to bring their own water and camping provisions. Parks Canada notes that as these sites are first-come, first-served, it's best to arrive early to secure a spot, especially during the summer.

Getting to Isle-de-Lis is part of the adventure, since the island is only accessible by water. Paddlers typically launch from the Sidney area on Vancouver Island before crossing a series of channels and island passages. Tides, wind, and currents can affect conditions, and paddlers should research their route and be prepared to modify it as needed. The island's seclusion is also part of why it is known by another name, Rum Island, as it was used by smugglers moving alcohol across the border during U.S. Prohibition.

Beyond Prohibition, the island has also changed status over time. The island was previously privately owned and bequeathed to the province in the late 1970s. The island was later designated as the Isle-de-Lis Marine Park before becoming the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, part of the federal Parks Canada network of protected areas. And the island delivers on natural beauty, as one Google review sums it up: "Very beautiful island. Great sunsets and opportunities for wildlife viewing." The island's location is also within reach of the scenic San Juan Islands off the Washington coast, where visitors can enjoy more coastal scenery and wildlife watching. 

For travelers prepared to make the trek, Isle-de-Lis offers a quiet corner of the Canadian coast. The best time to plan a trip is generally late spring through early fall, with mild and relatively dry summers. The nearest major airport is Victoria International Airport, a short drive to Sidney, located on the gorgeous coastal North Saanich peninsula. Alternatively, visitors can arrive in Sidney via ferries from mainland British Columbia. And when back on Vancouver Island, visitors can find lodging and explore charming Victoria, known for its arts scene and walkable downtown.