Near Edinburgh Is A Vibrant Market Town With Family Fun, Woodland Trails, And Royal History

In a country filled with historic market towns, how does one stand out? Intriguing history? That's always a plus. Well-preserved medieval buildings never hurt. A lovely forest filled with trails and a palace definitely adds that je ne sais quoi. The town of Dalkeith, just 30 minutes from Edinburgh, has all this and one surprising extra element: a 1970s development in the heart of its historic center, creating an almost surreal collision of centuries in a town that officially dates back to the 12th century. 

In fact, Dalkeith goes back to the Romans, but it's the medieval times and later that are most prominent in this once-important market hub that's the county capital of Midlothian. Dalkeith has what was Scotland's biggest indoor grain market, the 19th-century Corn Exchange, where Winston Churchill spoke to a crowd of 1,000 people in 1904. The Corn Exchange has since stopped running — now it's home to the Dalkeith History Society and Museum — but the town still hosts a monthly market in Dalkeith Country Park, its crown jewel.

Bordering the north edge of the town, the park combines history, family fun, and woodland trails in 1,000 forested acres. Family-friendly trails allow those with kids to stroll the grounds and take in the imposing Dalkeith Palace, built in the early 1700s on the site of a 12th-century castle. The palace has hosted the likes of Jacobite leader Bonnie Prince Charlie, King George IV, and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert during their first trip to Scotland in 1842. In fact, that trip was organized by the 5th Duke of Buccleuch, whose family owned this palace for 300 years. The park also has playgrounds plus ropes and zipline courses, making this historic town a great destination for those with and without kids. 

To experience Dalkeith fully, spend time in Dalkeith Country Park, whose forest is traversed by the North and South Esk rivers. Several trails take you to different areas of the park. The Yellow Trail or Wildernesse Walk is a flat, family-friendly option that's accessible for strollers and includes views of the 19th-century St Mary's Scottish Episcopal Church, home of the country's only functional water-powered organ. The Red Trail or Bluebell Wood is also family-friendly and takes you through a forest blanketed with blooming bluebells if you go in May.

For more of a challenge, the Dalkeith Country Park Circuit is a 4-mile loop that takes you through much of the park. You can see an abandoned conservatory, the beautiful 18th-century Montagu Bridge, and riverbank views. Part of this trek includes the Old Oak Wood Trail, which features a nearly 1,000-year-old tree. Note that portion is closed for part of the winter to protect its ancient trees.

Families with young kids can head to the Fort Douglas Adventure Playground, which has bridges and slides, climbing areas, and treehouses for kids up to 12. The playground is open daily from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., and as per Rick Steves' advice to avoid crowds and disappointment, it's a good idea to book tickets in advance. For more of an adrenaline rush, check out Go Ape, which has ropes and zipline courses and archery tag, perfect for older kids. Younger ones don't have to be worried about being left out, though, as there are adventures available for kids aged 4-6. When it's time to decompress, pay a visit to Restoration Yard, located in a historic stable block, which has a restaurant, store, and wellness space that hosts Pilates and other classes.

Dalkeith's role as a market town may have diminished somewhat since its heyday, but the town still hosts a monthly market for those who want to experience it. While the market was once held on High Street — where the old Corn Exchange and current Dalkeith Museum is — it now takes place in Dalkeith Country Park every third Saturday from March through December. It runs from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and offers a mix of local produce, crafts, and artisanal products.

If history is of interest, stop by the Dalkeith Museum, open Tuesdays through Thursdays from 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. If you've already done Rick Steves' top European sightseeing walk in Edinburgh, consider taking a walking tour with the Dalkeith History Society, which dives into the town's complex past. See the partially ruined exterior of the now-closed 15th-century St Nicholas Buccleuch Church, whose effigy of Princess Joanna Stewart (daughter of King James I) is believed to be the earliest monument of a hearing-impaired person. Learn about the town's industrial history as the site of Scotland's first railway, which opened in 1831 and was comprised of coal-filled wagons pulled by horses, and hear the stories about the women accused of witchcraft and executed in the 17th century in Dalkeith.

Dalkeith is about 30 minutes from Edinburgh by car, which makes it an easy day trip. You can also get there with Lothian Buses, and a bus trip takes about an hour. One of the best activities to do when visiting Scotland is skipping the crowds and heading to a rural town. Dalkeith isn't exactly rural, but its market history and beautiful park make it feel farther than it is from the capital.