Escape Chesapeake Bay Crowds At A Secret Serene Island Full Of Natural Beauty And Plenty Of Seafood
Virginia's Middle Peninsula is one of those quiet, under-the-radar places you think might exist somewhere, but you don't really know where to go looking for it. It's a rural coastal community rooted in a history of boat building, agriculture, and fishing. Driving through, you'll pass woodlands and farmlands brimming with feed corn and soybeans. There are no sprawling resorts or big cities (nor their conveniences or nuisances). Chesapeake Bay is open and peaceful, and you'll hear the distinctive rumble of traditional deadrise workboats every morning as watermen and women head out to tend their crab traps and fish nets.
People come to the Middle Peninsula for just this sort of atmosphere. Virginia has three areas of interest along the western shore of Chesapeake Bay: The Northern Neck, Middle Peninsula, and Lower Peninsula. Each is separated from the next by broad rivers with famous names: the Potomac, Rappahannock, York, and James. Welcoming small towns dot them all, from Kilmarnock and White Stone on the Northern Neck to Urbanna and Mathews on the Middle Peninsula. The Lower Virginia Peninsula has some well-known attractions, too — like America's first planned city, Williamsburg, or the beautiful beaches and history that fill Hampton.
But if you're looking for a little slice of island living on the Middle Peninsula, head to Gwynn's Island. Driving over a singular swing bridge brings you to this tiny island, a quiet residential community that welcomes guests with superb, fresh seafood and some of the prettiest beaches on the Bay. And, while plenty of visitors keep the Middle Peninsula busy, finding a little slice of solitary heaven like Gwynn's Island is precisely what keeps people coming back for more.
Natural peace and tranquility on Gwynn's Island
Artifacts have shown that Gwynn's Island has been inhabited since about 10,000 B.C.E. According to local lore, in the early 1600s, Welsh explorer Hugh Gwynn rescued Pocahontas from drowning and was given the island in gratitude for saving her life. Whether or not this truly happened is up for debate, but there is plenty of verifiable history to explore. During your stay, stop by the Gwynn's Island Museum for a tour of the island's history, including its role in the Revolutionary War.
From the shore, panoramic views of Chesapeake Bay and the Piankatank River beacon you to explore the water. The island's southern tip is a pristine sandy beach, but you'll need a boat to explore it fully. Thankfully, charters for fishing, sailing, or just exploring can be found if you look for them — if not on Gwynn's, then in the nearby towns of Mathews or Deltaville. Another great way to explore is to bring kayaks; they make the perfect way to get out on the water here. The protected sounds and rivers are home to dolphins, eagles, ospreys, and other wildlife, and the entire area lies on the Virginia Water Trail.
For a taste fresh from the Bay, check out Hole in the Wall. This waterfront grill is situated on the inland side of the island with panoramic views of Milford Haven, the small sound that separates Gwynn's from the mainland. They serve the freshest seafood imaginable, with the deadrise fishing boats that caught it moored within view. In addition to fresh oysters and blue crab, Hole in the Wall is known for its burgers and local brews.You might also want to check out The Hatchery. This seasonal, open-air, picnic-like spot on the water is known for its fresh oysters served raw, roasted, or fried.
Charting a course for Gwynn's Island and Virginia's Middle Peninsula
Gwynn's Island lies off Virginia's Middle Peninsula, roughly halfway between the Norfolk/Hampton area and the Maryland border at the Potomac River along US Highway 17. The island is connected by a swing bridge on State Route 223. The largest town nearby is Gloucester, where there are several big box stores and chain hotels and restaurants. If you're flying in for a visit, your best bet is Richmond International Airport — about an hour and a half to the west by car.
The area is rural. The nearby town of Mathews, 12 minutes south by car, offers several trendy restaurants, groceries, and a little shopping. Vacation rentals are plentiful, but you won't find many places to stay beyond small inns, campgrounds, and marinas if you come by boat. Keep in mind that many of Virginia's more famous coastal towns, like beachside Cape Charles, are more than two hours away by car on the Delmarva Peninsula — the other shore of Chesapeake Bay that isn't even visible on the horizon from here.
The weather on the Chesapeake Bay is typical of the Mid-Atlantic states. Summers can be still and hot, with average highs in the high 80s and higher feel-like temperatures. Winters are chilly, with lows in the 30s. Snow is uncommon but not unheard of. The best times to visit, especially for beach days or playing on the water, are during the summer. If you're after slightly cooler weather, try visiting during May, September, or October.