Halfway Between Warsaw And Berlin Is One Of Poland's Oldest Cities Full Of Markets, Castles, And Cuisine
Located in Western Poland, Poznań is often referred to as being the nation's birthplace. It's actually one of the oldest cities in Poland and dates back to the ninth century. Today, it's home to over 25 universities, and with that many students it has a lively and modern vibe, without feeling like it's stuck in the past. The city is home to pastel-hued town squares, nostalgic restaurants that serve up traditional dishes, and old-school Soviet-era style bars. Its culinary scene goes beyond potato-based meals, and it's also the origin of a croissant that is so unique that it holds a special protected status.
To get here from Warsaw, high-speed trains from the capital arrive at the Poznań Główny station in about three hours. By train from Berlin, you'll get here in about two and a half hours. Poznań's central railway station is located near the Old Town with easy access to trams and buses for travel around the city. Alternatively, you can also take a Flixbus, the surprisingly affordable way to get from city to city in Europe.
Explore the historic squares, museums, and traditions of Poznań
Poznań's Old Market Square is the vibrant core of the city and a perfect starting point for first-time visitors. The square is surrounded by colorful 16th-century pastel-hued merchant houses, ornate statues and water fountains, and three palaces — including the Renaissance-style Górka Palace that houses the Archaeological Museum. Every day at noon, crowds gather in the Old Market Square at the Town Hall for one of the city's most iconic and whimsical traditions. As the clock strikes 12 p.m., a Poznań version of a cuckoo clock starts, with two mechanical billy goats emerging above the clock and butting heads twelve times. At the end, a trumpeter sounds the town's bugle song, a ritual that has remained unchanged since the mid-1500s.
In the summer, the Old Market becomes even more lively, with many bars setting up beer gardens in the square. In June, Saint John's Fair, the city's oldest fair and market, which dates back to the Middle Ages, takes place here. During the fair, vendors in wooden stalls sell everything including traditional food, beers, and homemade goods.
Just a short walk from the city center is the Royal Castle. At first glance, the castle may appear older than it actually is. Throughout history, it has been rebuilt several times, most recently between 2010 and 2016. Today, it's home to the Museum of Applied Arts, which boasts an impressive collection of furniture, ceramics, and glassware. Be sure to also check out the 140-foot tower for panoramic views of the city. For more stunning architecture and festivities, head southeast to Krakow, home to Europe's best preserved Medieval center and best free music scenes.
Sample Poznań's cuisine and visit its Soviet-themed bars
When you think of Poznań cuisine, think of the three P's: pastries, potatoes, and pierogies. To get acquainted with the comfort food of Poland, start at the Poznań Croissant Museum, located in the city center. More than a novelty attraction, it pays tribute to the St. Martin's Croissant, which holds a special status as a Protected Geographical Indication item. This basically means that only certain bakeries in Poznań and the Greater Poland region can make them and sell them under that name. The museum is more like a live cooking demonstration than a traditional museum, and at the end, you'll be able to sample the local delicacy.
For something more savory, head to a milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the best places to eat while on a shoestring budget in Europe, per Rick Steves. Milk bars are a type of Polish cafeteria that was popular in the Communist era and serves traditional Polish cuisine at bargain prices. Try one near the Old Town at Pod Arkadami, which offers a set menu usually featuring a meat dish, a small salad, and hearty potatoes.
For more Soviet-era nostalgia, wrap up your evening at a PRL-themed bar. PRL is the Polish acronym for when Poland was known as Polska Rzeczpospolita Ludowa during Soviet rule. These underground bars are decorated with Communist-era relics, like vintage radios, propaganda posters, and portraits and busts of Lenin. There are a few in the city, but if you have to choose just one, grab a drink at Proletaryat, a highly-rated PRL-themed bar with a wide selection of beers, mainly from the Czech Republic.