An Arizona Hilltop Boasts A Breathtaking Vineyard With Valley Views That Could Easily Be Mistaken For Italy

You likely know that towering saguaro cacti grow abundantly in Arizona. Perhaps you've heard that Yuma is the vegetable capital of the United States each winter. But did you know the Grand Canyon State is also wine country? With growing conditions similar to parts of Italy –– including hot days, cool nights, and volcanic soil –– Arizona is quietly becoming a winemaking destination. One of the most interesting examples is a hilltop vineyard and restaurant owned by none other than a rock star turned vintner, who's as passionate about terroir and tannins as he is about building community.

Meet Maynard James Keenan — best known as the frontman for the band Tool (and A Perfect Circle, and Puscifer) — and his growing ventures in Arizona that include vineyards, restaurants, and a deep-rooted passion for creating. Keenan doesn't just own a winery; he's an award-winning winemaker, involved in every step of the process, from growing to bottling. His entrepreneurial spirit means there are many ways to experience his wine, including from a hilltop in the small community of Cottonwood, the "biggest little town" in the heart of Arizona's wine country. Keenan told The Arizona Republic he sought a slower pace after living in Los Angeles for his music career. A friend suggested Jerome, an artsy town once called the "Wickedest Town in the West," located less than 20 minutes from Cottonwood. After visiting and realizing the area's resemblance to Italy, he relocated. Within a few years, he was experimenting with growing grapes in the rich soil and had become as famous for his wine as he is for his music. Visit here and you just might find yourself saying you're living la dolce vita – the sweet life.

Dining and tours at Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery in Cottonwood

Keenan has established several businesses in this area, including Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria, a stunning compound atop a hill in Cottonwood. Visitors can park at the bottom and take a tram up, enjoying a spectacular view along the way. The tram ride is an unusual attraction in itself. The restaurant, vineyard, barrel room, greenhouse, bottle shop, and gelato shop are all nestled seamlessly into the complex. The restaurant emphasizes Arizona ingredients in every bite. From the fruits and vegetables served to the flour in the pizzas, the commitment to local is clear. You'll want to spend ample time exploring here and soaking in the sun on the patio. With the vines growing right on the hillside and the rolling hills surrounding, you will want to stay awhile. Even using the word Trattoria evokes a leisurely afternoon in Italy. 

Beyond the dining experience, private tours of The Ventura Room, a 90-minute experience offering a deep dive into Keenan's Caduceus Cellars label, can also be booked. Currently, this intimate experience for just eight people is held only on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, so reservations are required. At $269 per person as of this writing, it's a splurge, but it includes dinner and wine pairings. Other Keenan-owned businesses in the area include Four 8 Fried Chicken & Bubbles (with Keenan's recipes), and Four 8 Wineworks, a tasting room with light bites like Twaffles, tater tots cooked on a waffle iron, and Queen B. Vinyl Cafe, which is part cafe, part record store. 

Where to stay in Arizona's wine country

If you're coming in from outside the state, fly into Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport and rent a car for this journey. Cottonwood is located about 110 miles north of Phoenix via Interstate 17. On weekends, this route can get congested, so be sure to build in extra travel time. Head straight to Old Town Cottonwood, the heart of the community. Along this stretch of Main Street, you'll find charming accommodations like the Iron Horse Inn and the Tavern Hotel. The area also offers chain hotels, vacation rentals, campgrounds, RV parks, and even tiny cabin stays. After all, if you're coming to sample wines, you'll want to stay a night or two.

While you'll need a car for the drive and any road trip stops along the way, once you arrive in Cottonwood, you may find that everything you want to experience is within walking distance. The town is compact and easy to navigate, with many shops, tasting rooms, restaurants, and even trails just steps apart. Since this part of Arizona enjoys a relatively mild climate, which is one reason grapes thrive here, you should be able to enjoy the outdoors nearly year-round. Even in the summer, when daytime temperatures can rise above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, the evenings tend to cool down. So, you can go out hiking early, come back to your room at the hottest part of the day, and go back outside in the evening. In winter, daytime temperatures are comfortable, and snow is rare — unlike in nearby Flagstaff, one of the snowiest cities in America.

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