Maryland's Underrated Island Has Cute Small Towns, Fantastically Fresh Seafood, And Diverse Landscapes

The Chesapeake Bay is larger than most travelers realize. Occupying 4,480 square miles, it's the third-largest estuary in the world — more than four times the size of Puget Sound and almost three times the size of the San Francisco Bay. And while some of the destinations along its shoreline are well-known, like Baltimore's Inner Harbor and historic Annapolis, other off-the-beaten-path destinations hardly see any visitors at all. Case in point: Smith Island, located in the middle of the bay and part of an archipelago off the southwestern side of Maryland's eastern coast.

Though it's only 12 miles offshore, it feels like another world, set back in a time when people's livelihoods revolved around the water. Smith Island is 4 miles in length and home to just around 270 residents across its three cute small towns. Ewell, the main town, is about 2 miles away from the village of Rhodes Point, while Tylerton, the smallest town, now occupies its own island, thanks to years of erosion. Though not particularly easy to access, it's known among locals for its picturesque Methodist church.

Many Smith Island residents earn a living on the bay. Local fishermen haul in a fresh catch of crabs and oysters most days, and a great place to try them is the Bayside Inn Restaurant in Ewell. In addition to Maryland crab soup, crab cakes, shrimp tenders, and rockfish filets available a la carte, the restaurant offers a family-style lunch where visitors can try a wider variety of freshly caught specialties.

Can't get enough shellfish? Find out more about this seafood haven on Delaware's coast, one of the country's top 10 destination restaurants.

After the meal, don't miss the chance to try the legendary Smith Island cake — since 2008 distinguished as the official dessert of Maryland — a ten-layer confection made of yellow cake and chocolate frosting. It's on the menu at the Bayside Inn, and gourmet variations are also on offer down the street at the Smith Island Bakery.

One of the best things to do on Smith Island is to get out and explore its pristine landscapes, especially the Martin National Wildlife Refuge. Designated trails make it easy to walk or bike between mainland villages, with rental bicycles available ($5 an hour) at Smith Island Cruises. Local outfitters like Experience Smith Island offer boat tours around the island, including sunset cruises (between $44 and $55 per person) and day trips to a nearby pelican rookery ($365 per adult). You could take a two-hour guided kayaking tour ($75 per person) or rent a kayak for solo exploration ($30 an hour or $80 a day) from Adventure Smith Island at 3 Knots Marine.

To get to Smith Island, catch a passenger ferry with one of three companies headquartered in Crisfield, noting that schedules are always subject to change. The one-way journey takes about an hour. The nearest airport to Crisfield is the Salisbury Regional Airport or the international airport in Baltimore. There are several options for dining and lodging on the island, mostly in Ewell. Prices for a double room at the quaint Smith Island Inn start at $139 a night, though larger groups may find Airbnbs more convenient. Note that all the prices above are as of the time of this publication.

If you're in search of other spots to escape the Chesapeake Bay crowds, check out this serene island full of natural beauty and fantastic seafood, or explore the prettiest beaches, dunes, and forests on this hidden gem of an island.