Croatia's Perfectly Preserved Hilltop Village Is A Sleepy, Underrated Gem With Medieval Charm

When you imagine Croatia, you probably start conjuring images of aquamarine Adriatic waters, pine-studded islands, and lively seaside cities with yacht-ringed marinas. While many come here for the dreamy island getaways of Brač and Hvar or the long list of seriously stunning beaches Croatia offers, the country also flaunts irresistible hilltop towns that beckon those willing to venture away from the coast for a few hours. One of the very best is surely Motovun.

Capping a 880-foot-high mound in the northern half of the olive-tree-covered Istrian Peninsula, Motovun has been hailed as one of the most eye-catching towns in the region. And that's really saying something since Istria also hosts the gorgeous seaside gem of Rovinj and Pula, a city bursting with 2,000-year-old Roman ruins. While they draw the big crowds, Motovun remains small and sleepy by comparison — the town has a permanent population of under 1,000 people!

Because Motovun is so bucolic and remote, having your own car is the best way to visit. The drive in from Pula, which has its own airport, takes around an hour. It's only a little longer than that to get in from Rijeka, where there's another airport and a major ferry port. Be warned that the tight-knit streets of Motovun's old town are largely pedestrianized, so consider using the larger parking lots at the foot of the hill.

The medieval part of the town that sits on the hill is unquestionably the main attraction of Motovun. It's not big; just a couple of narrow streets and small squares, all encircled by big bastions and bulwarks that have been around since the 13th century. Even the walk up is incredible, as you pass under a duo of soaring gatehouses that contain ancient reliefs and showcase Gothic architecture.

Once you finally enter the old town area, you'll be greeted by the Renaissance-era Church of St. Stephen, which sports a lovely daffodil-colored facade before a cobblestone square. Standing there means you're in the heart of the town in the old plaza, from which a series of inviting streets fan out. Take any of them to get lost amid souvenir stalls selling truffles and olive oil.

Perhaps the highlight of wandering around the Motovun old city is the part where you get to scramble up onto the historic walls themselves. There's a small entry fee, but the views are likely to wow. As one Tripadvisor reviewer puts it, "One of my favorite memories was getting up first thing while everyone was still asleep and going for a run through the still empty town and then along the walls. The mist was rising off the green vineyards below as the sun [came] peaking through the distant hills."

Visit Croatia recently reported that the little Motovun came out on top in a study of the most underrated destinations in the country. Another study by VIP Holiday Booker awarded Motovun the honor of being Croatia's best destination for relaxation. The takeaway? Expect this town to be chilled and easy-going, but also not too busy. While Rick Steves once likened a Croatian summer to "spending spring break in Florida," Motovun is sure to provide a much-needed break from the crowds of vacationers.

There's arguably no better way to feel the lazy pace of life than in one of the town's acclaimed food taverns. Motovun is a culinary hub of Istria, mainly thanks to its place amid the region's abundant truffle forests. Slide into one of the terrace seats at Pod Voltom, a highly rated restaurant with a menu that bursts with all sorts of truffle-related dishes. You can have a big lunch while surveying the surrounding forests and farms. It's idyllic.

Talking of those surrounding forests, the area that swirls around Motovun's soaring hill town is a gem for nature buffs and adventurers. Head out on the Parenzana Trail to trek through old Habsburg-era tunnels that have been converted into hiking and biking routes. There are sections that weave through the River Mirna Valley, finishing in Motovun's shadow. Alternatively, there are swathes of protected woodland to the northeast of town with old oak groves and wildflower meadows.