This Secret, Soulful Indian Beach Town Has Sunsets As Golden As The Beaches Paired With Exceptional Food
For many travelers, musicians, and tech gurus, a visit to India coincides with tremendous inspiration and personal transformation. While many first-time visitors to the country stay north, Kerala's golden beaches in southern India are another top-notch destination for your first trip to the country — and they're far less chaotic than the major cities. If you're looking for that perfect combination of sun, beaches, tasty Indian cuisine, and an environment for personal growth, the stunning beach city of Varkala in the southwestern state of Kerala should be at the top of your India bucket list.
Like Ubud in Bali, Indonesia, Varkala's history is etched in Hindu myth and legend. One story centers on a dream by a Pandayan king, who was visited by Lord Brahma and told to build a temple for redemption; this ancient temple, Janardhana Temple, still stands today in South Varkala and is a popular destination for pilgrims. In another legend, a group of pilgrims confessed to Saint Narada, a Hindu sage, that they had sinned. He tossed his valakam – a bark loincloth — and the place where it landed was called Varkala.
While Kuta, Ubud, and Canggu in Bali are crowded, masses of tourists have not yet reached Kerala or its capital, Thiruvananthapuram, commonly called Trivandrum. The quiet region, however, is no backwater; Kerala is one of the most developed states in the country and is, perhaps surprisingly, led by the local Communist Party. Socially, the state leads in education and English proficiency. However, its public transportation infrastructure lags.
Kerala's golden beaches
Within Kerala, Varkala sits atop red cliffs overlooking the Arabian Sea and golden beaches. In the last decade, tourism has grown rapidly, though Varkala is still peaceful; many Hindu travelers visiting the city are on a pilgrimage, searching for renewal, while foreign visitors often seek a deeper sense of self while contemplating the mysteries of life or possibly how long they'll be staying.
One of Varkala's most popular beaches is Papanasam Beach, a few hundred yards from the city's helipad and several small guesthouses, yoga studios, and chai houses. As the word "papam" means "sin" and "nasam" means "destroy" in the local Malayalam language, local and Hindu pilgrims frequently visit here to take a dip and cleanse their spirits. The beach is a great spot to try paragliding, watch local fishing boats, catch plenty of rays, watch stunning sunsets, or even rent a paddleboard and explore the shoreline.
If you'd prefer to be active on the water or to have more peace and quiet, head a few miles south to Kayikkara and go on a kayak or standup paddleboard tour with Shiva Kayaking, where trips start at 650 rupees ($7.60) per person. You'll have the option to either paddle out to sea or through a mangrove and visit Ponnumthuruth Shiva Parvati Vishnu Temple on Golden Island (bring long-sleeved clothing). Before heading to the beach, be sure to grab enough rupees. If you realize you need cash once you're there, the nearest ATM to both beaches is over one mile away. Be cognizant of where you take out cash and use your card, as card skimming and other types of credit card fraud are unfortunately rampant in India.
Food and activities for the soul
Varkala is best known as a destination for mindfulness and seeking enlightenment through spiritual experiences. Despite being under the radar for regular tourists, Varkala is full of drop-in and multi-day yoga retreats and meditation courses for all levels of practitioners, from teacher certifications to those who are curious about the practice. Most tourists visit during the winter months and during India's hot and dry summers from March through May. Be sure to stay hydrated!
In Varkala, you will find typical meals like biryani as well as Western food along the cliff area overlooking Papanasam Beach. However, India is the world's most vegetarian-friendly country, and whether you're a strict vegetarian or not, don't miss trying the local Keralan cuisine, including karriku dosa, uzhuunu vada, and sadya, a fragrant and flavorful assortment of dishes served on a banana leaf. Thiramala Home Foods serves up this beloved dining experience.
The closest major international airport to Varkala is Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) International, which is approximately an hour away. Note that while you can book a taxi directly from the airport, it is likely better to arrange your ride from the airport in advance. If you're visiting by train, Varkala Sivagiri station connects the city to Trivandrum in under an hour (if the trains are on schedule), as well as Kochi. Once you arrive, be sure to bargain with the tuk-tuk driver and plot the route in Google Maps, especially if it is at night. Despite the complexities of traveling in India, once you visit, you can't help but peel back the many layers of Rick Steves' favorite country and gain incredible experiences that will shape your life.