Rick Steves Loves The Easy, Scenic Hike To This Mysterious Castle In France That 'Appears Like A Mirage'

Many travelers are familiar with Europe's most famous castles, like Prague Castle, the Alcázar of Segovia, and Germany's Neuschwanstein Castle (best known as inspiration for the Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland), to name a few. But according to Rick Steves, the real magic awaits at castle ruins scattered across the continent.

He covered the topic in a recent post. "Their massive chunks of stone no longer guard anything from anyone," Steves wrote. "Castle ruins invite you to fill-in-the-moat, ramble the ramparts, and let your imagination roam. Climbing through waist-high weeds on rubble corralled by surviving walls, you can break off a spiky frond and live a sword-fern fantasy."

Among his top picks is the Château de Commarque, located near the medieval village of Sarlat-la-Canéda in France's Dordogne region. Founded in the 12th century and abandoned around 500 years later, the castle ruins were designated a historical monument in 1943 by the French Ministry of Culture. A descendant of the castle's original owners purchased the site in 1962 and began extensive restoration work, eventually reopening the castle as a cultural center.

Today, the Château de Commarque is open to the public for self-guided tours (10.50€) and special events, including archery workshops, food festivals, and after-dark light shows. But Rick Steves' recommendation is the journey to get there itself. 

Access to the site is somewhat limited: you can't drive right up to the front door. You'll park (or be dropped off) at an entrance area connected to the castle ruins by a wooded trail. Steves' suggested route involves a 20-minute stroll along a chestnut tree-shaded path to a clearing where, he says, "the mostly ruined castle appears like a mirage." Past visitors say if you go early in the morning, you'll hardly see anyone else around, adding to the almost mystical experience. Note that the path is not accessible to wheelchairs and may not be suitable for strollers, either.

Eager to explore more castles in France? Check out the castle ruins built into a limestone cliff in this picturesque French village or consider a visit to Mont St. Michel, perched on a rocky French island with fairytale movie vibes.

If you're looking to try a longer hike in the area, consider this 6-mile loop that leads from the village of Marquay to the Château de Commarque. The moderately challenging trek features sweeping views of the castle; budget around three hours for the adventure, and be sure to bring plenty of water. Marquay is also a convenient place to stay while exploring Dordogne. La Maison de Marquay is an ivy-covered guesthouse with quaint rooms starting at 80€ per night, while nearby Hotel Bien-Etre Aux Cyprès de Marquay has a great outdoor pool and rooms from 86€ per night. 

There isn't much in the way of dining options in the village, but you'll find plenty of restaurants and wine bars in the town center of Sarlat-la-Canéda, about a 15-minute drive away. In Sarlat, you can also stop into the tourist information office, as well as a truffle museum and the Manoir de Gisson, a medieval landmark open for tours (9.90€). The closest airport is in Bergerac, about one hour and 15 minutes by car or one hour and 50 minutes by train. It's also possible to get to Sarlat by train from Paris (about six hours, including connections). 

For more of Rick Steves' recommendations in the region, see his advice on visiting France's oldest and second-largest city, an overlooked, untouristy gem, and don't miss the beautiful city in France where Steves says you can see the world just like Van Gogh.