This Quirky City In Arizona's Extraordinary Painted Desert Has Route 66 Kitsch And Wild West History

Endearingly coined the "Mother Road" by John Steinbeck, legendary Route 66 is dotted with pit stops bursting with vintage charm and eclectic attractions. Following Interstate 40 through Arizona, the route was originally established in late 1926. When it was completed in 1938, it was the first paved road to connect Chicago and Los Angeles. The monumental effort extended the road 2,448 miles across Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. As automobile travel rose in popularity, so did the roadside attractions and towns that supplied fuel, food, and places to get some shuteye. Not to be missed if you're traveling through Arizona, the small city of Holbrook is a nostalgic blast from the past and a gateway to some of the region's most spectacular scenery. 

The National Register of Historic places lists more than 250 buildings, bridges, and other sites along Route 66, including the striking Painted Desert Inn within the Petrified Forest National Park and Holbrook's very own Wigwam Village Motel. One of seven Wigwam Villages established on Route 66 by entrepreneur Chester E. Lewis, Holbrook's was completed in 1950. While the structures are in fact teepees, the original patented design by architect Frank Redford referred to them as wigwams because he thought it sounded better. Fortunately for us today, the Lewis family continues to run the motel, complete with vintage cars parked out front. So if you want to cozy up inside a miniature mid-century marvel, make sure this spot tops your list.

Whether you opt for the northern or southern entrances to neighboring Petrified Forest National Park, the drive from Holbrook is only about 20 minutes. The area is famous for its Triassic fossils dating back 200 to 250 million years, especially in the form of ancient trees that have turned to colorful stone over time. People have occupied this area of the Painted Desert for at least 13,000 years, and you can see astonishing examples of ancient Puebloan dwellings, pottery and rock art along an immanently scenic drive. It's important to note that you can't collect fossils within the park's boundaries, but if you're looking for treasures to take with you, check out DoBell Ranch, where you can dig for your own petrified "rainbow wood."

Holbrook is less than two hours north to an iconic Arizona canyon with picturesque Western views known as the homeland of the Diné people of the Navajo Nation. The area continues to attract visitors to its dramatic red cliffs and scenic overlooks, not unlike the natural wonder that is Horseshoe Bend, one of the most photographed destinations in Arizona.

Holbrook itself is a quirky and inviting town with plenty to do. Don't miss the Painted Desert Indian Center, which has been operating in Holbrook since 1979. Handcrafted Native American pieces like woven rugs, pottery, contemporary Hopi Kachina dolls, Zuni jewelry, and hand-hewn knives highlight the incredible, time-honored craftsmanship of Southwest Native American artisans. The rockhounds among us will love a stop at quirky Jim Gray's Petrified Wood Co., which is part gift store and part museum, featuring Native American artifacts, sculpted rainbow wood, local ephemera, and even a 2.9 million-year-old fossilized alligator named Wild Bill.

For a deeper dive into history, check out the Navajo County Historical Society Museum, which sits inside the city's former courthouse and is open Monday through Saturday. Exhibits describe the prehistory of the area. It also delves into the heritage of the Anasazi, Navajo, Hopi, and Apache people, who have called the Painted Desert home for centuries. Then, trace Holbrook's progression from the area's early settlers and the Old West to the construction of Route 66, and beyond.

Another legendary but long-gone gem is the sinister-sounding Buckets of Blood Saloon. Originally called Terrill's Cottage Saloon, the name drew on its reputation as the site of a dramatic gunfight in 1886, resulting in floors so slick they could have been doused with a "bucket of blood." In fact, the whole town was notorious for being the "roughest, toughest, most lawless, bloody town of the Old West," according to the Navajo County Historical Society. While the tavern shut its doors once road trip culture waned along Route 66, you can still walk in the footsteps of the town's original railroaders, cattlemen, and outlaws along Bucket of Blood Street.

Aside from Wigwam Village, another funky place to set up camp is the Crystal Forest Gift Shop & Campground, which offers boondocking for self-contained RVs, but no hookups or amenities. The adjacent gift shop is brimming with fossils, minerals, and other curiosities. For something a little roomier, a few familiar chain hotels offer comfortable, modern suites. If you don't have your own RV in tow but still want to get a taste of the road trip glamping experience, there are several vintage campers for rent on Airbnb with epic views of the surrounding desert.