One Of Portugal's Best-Kept Secrets Is A Perfect Retirement Town Blending Nearby Mountains With Ocean Beaches

There are plenty of reasons Portugal is considered the best place in Europe to retire to, although there is one significant caveat to that (hint: taxes). But finding the right place in Portugal is a matter of personal taste. Do you prefer the buzz of city life or a quiet country escape? Warm, sunny beaches or cool, green mountains? 

For those seeking the old Portugal — before tourism transformed the streets of Lisbon and Porto or the crowded beaches of the Algarve — consider a trip to the small town of Caminha, right on the border with Spain. It sits at the mouth of the River Minho as it cuts through the mountains and empties into the Atlantic Ocean. This geographic mix of river, sea, and mountain provides Camhina with fresh local seafood and plenty of local Vinho Verde, the so-called green wine, named after the lush landscapes of Northern Portugal.

The town of Caminha is an hour's drive north of Porto Airport, right along the Atlantic coast, close to the Spanish border. Perched between the mountains and the sea, this coastal area of Portugal gets busy only during the summer months, then quiets down the rest of the year. There is a small but growing community of immigrants who have decided to make this corner of Portugal home.

A good place to begin exploring Caminha is the old medieval center and its landmark, the Torre de Relógio, or the Clocktower. The medieval tower is much older, part of the stone walls that surrounded ancient Caminha when it was a fishing village, but the clock was set into its stone since 1673. It has taken center stage ever since. Right next to it is the Renaissance-era Igreja de Misericordia, the Church of Mercy, where, if you're lucky, you'll catch a concert featuring the church's fully restored historic organ. The nearby Igreja Matriz is the main church of Caminha, an interesting mix of Gothic and Renaissance.  Swing by the Mercado Municipal, one of the region's best markets for fresh seafood, fruit, and vegetables. This modern building has a glass front for sweeping views of the River Minho, which marks the border with Spain. Getting a little lost is part of the charm, and the area is so small, you'll never be lost for long. 

Living in the old city center can also be surprisingly affordable. A recent listing for a sleek 2-bedroom, 1 bathroom apartment with sweeping views of the River Minho was listed at just €800a month, with most listed rentals coming under €1,000. You can get an affordable "menu do dia," a three-course lunch menu, for as little as €10 — a deal so good that residents in Spain's neighboring Galicia region regularly cross the border for lunch!

Of course, many are drawn to Caminha by the mountain views and sandy beaches. The Camino de Santiago. Europe's equivalent to the Appalachian Trail has a branch that extends to Portugal through Caminha, and the old railway line along the River Minho has been converted into a 25-mile eco-trail with views of the estuary. Caminha also has several beaches a short drive away. The closest, Camarido Beach, is a sandy stretch where the river meets the Atlantic, surrounded by pine forest. The Foz do Minho area of this beach was ranked by the British newspaper, The Guardian, as one of the best beaches in Europe. While Caminha has mild winters, rarely dipping below 59 degrees, December and January in Caminha can get grey and rainy with strong winds sweeping across the ocean.  April to October are the sunniest months. 

For a taste of Portuguese cuisine, Restaurant Remo is right on the River Minho and specializes in fish, serving local specialties like fried cod or grilled seabass, plus sushi. It's conveniently right next to the river taxi stands that cross into Spain and back. Local expats also like Canto do Lobo or Wolf's Howl, across from Caminha's main church. They specialize in sharing plates, like fried croquettes and pork ribs, but also have traditional desserts like abade de priscos pudding, a rich crème caramel often made with port wine or brandy. If, after all this, Portugal still hasn't convinced you, maybe you should check out a surprising European country named the best in the world to retire — and it's not Spain.