California's Crowded, Touristy Sausalito Hides A Secret Downtown With Cool Shops And Food That Locals Love
As many a visitor to San Francisco knows, Sausalito has charm all its own. Known as the "Venice of the West," this colorful and quirky California town across the bay is known for its bohemian houseboat community. Unfortunately, Sausalito's picturesque streets and waterways are also crowded with tourists, especially during the summer and holiday weekends. The Bridgeway Promenade and Sausalito Boardwalk get especially congested with strolling tourists and visiting cyclists. If you want to get to know Sausalito like the locals do, head instead to downtown's Caledonia Street. It runs parallel to Bridgeway in what's known as the New Town area, minus the bay views and touristy shops. This is where the locals shop; it's home to Waterstreet, Sausalito's only hardware store, and the town's library. Plus, there are plenty of places to get some food and soak in the atmosphere like a local.
You can get to Sausalito by water or by land from San Francisco. Either way, you are guaranteed magnificent views of the Golden Gate Bridge. The ferry ride is so scenic that it has become one of California's top tourist attractions. You can also drive across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. It's an easy, 30-minute ride, which is what makes Sausalito such a popular weekend excursion. If you're feeling energetic, cycle across the bridge in the morning, then return by ferry in the afternoon. Cyclists are allowed on the sidewalk, separate from car traffic. It is about an hour-and-a-half or a two-hour ride each way, but you'll be rewarded with unparalleled views from this iconic landmark.
Where to shop on Caledonia Street
Caledonia Street is a scant seven blocks long, but it has long been the beating heart of Sausalito, ever since 1841, when Sausalito's founder built his hacienda nearby and moved his family to the town. Through the years, Sausalito has been a transportation hub, a smuggling den for bootleggers, a bustling World War II shipyard, and, more recently, a creative haven for bohemian artists. Caledonia Street is the place locals go for nuts and bolts, paints and canvas, and daily groceries. It's also where the community celebrates the annual Fourth of July parade and other events.
Waterstreet Hardware is an institution on Caledonia Street. It's been supplying Sausalito with all its hardware needs since 1971. This quaint store was once Sausalito's schoolhouse, built in the 1890s. Every morning, the owners wheel out a wooden statue of a miner panning for gold, carved by a local artist and gifted to the store. It sits between a park bench and assorted ladders and gardening gear to welcome customers. Across the street, Tivoli Decor is a vintage store whose curated finds make even window shopping a pleasure.
One block away, Drivers Market and Deli is housed in a building that's more than 100 years old and has long been a community grocery store. In 2012, it was completely stripped down and renovated with a state-of-the-art kitchen. Now, it is both the neighborhood grocery store, specializing in local and natural produce, as well as a local favorite for sandwiches and take-away meals.
Where to eat and drink in Sausalito's downtown
Caledonia Street is also where locals come to eat and drink, away from the tourist crowds. Sandrino is a beloved pizza, wine, and craft brew place on Caledonia Street that's small but worth the wait. The Italian couple that runs it takes great pride in their lovingly crafted pizzas. But, be warned: no substitutions allowed! Though technically on Bridgeway, the Lighthouse Cafe is considered a Caledonia Street establishment as it sits in the New Town neighborhood – you can't miss the distinctive miniature lighthouse on its roof. Sausalito Gourmet Delicatessen is a true local secret. What seems to be a sweet little two-story house on the outside is, in fact, a gourmet deli with a bubbling fountain and patio, serving up Mediterranean-inspired deli sandwiches. Homemade spanakopita and gyros are specialties, and they do vegetarian gyros as well. Finally, Smitty's Bar is the Caledonia Street drinking establishment that's been around for decades. On paper, Smitty's has been operating since 1938 as a bottling works and licensed saloon. The property has been trading in drinks for longer, though, as a "drinking palace" that operated through the Prohibition years. Today, it's a time capsule of local life in Sausalito with a pool table, darts, and, of course, cold beer on tap.
After wandering through Sausalito, you may be tempted to stay overnight. You can rent a little piece of Sausalito with a night on a classic houseboat. Or, you can splurge on boutique luxury at The Inn Above Tide, one of the world's best hotels, where each room has a sweeping view of the bay.