Hundreds Of Years Of History Are Etched Into This Fascinating New Mexico National Monument

Drive along New Mexico State Road 53, and the rock will suddenly loom before you, like the prow of a great stone ship sailing through the desert. The Zuni people called it Atsinna — place of writings on the rock. The most recent visitors, Anglo-Americans, referred to it as Inscription Rock. Today, it is a national monument known by the name given by Spanish conquistadors, El Morro, meaning "the headland." 

El Morro has been a desert refuge for hundreds of years, dating back to at least the 13^th century, when Indigenous Puebloans settled the rock and cultivated the surrounding land. At its base, a water hole provides fresh water, a sweet respite for desert travelers. Over the years, stopping at El Morro became a resting stop for those crossing the New Mexico desert. Its significance was so great that generations felt compelled to carve their names and words into the stone. No such carvings are allowed today at this protected site. Instead, visitors can walk through El Morro and wonder at the stories behind the names, words, and symbols etched into the rock.

El Morro National Monument is a 2-hour drive on Interstate 40, west of Albuquerque, the Southwest gem that's one of the best film cities. Take the turn for Highway 53, also known as Ice Caves Road, home to the Bandera Volcano and Ice Cave, a subterranean marvel sculpted out of ancient lava flows. It's on the way and only a 20-minute drive from El Morro. Paired together, both sites make for an excellent day trip from Albuquerque. 

As a natural oasis in New Mexico's high desert, El Morro has held special meaning for those who stop to drink its waters. It has no natural spring; instead, it collects rainwater and snowmelt (up to 200,000 gallons) that accumulates throughout the year to become a reliable water source for travelers. Perhaps this is why so many were compelled to leave their mark. There are more than 2,000 inscriptions at El Morro. Ancient Puebloans chipped away at the rock surface to create petroglyphs, cultural symbols carved into the rock. Some are instantly recognizable, like human handprints on stone or four-legged animals with the arcing horns of Bighorn sheep. 

Hundreds of years later, Spanish explorers made their own inscriptions. In 1605, the first Spanish governor of Mexico, Don Juan de Onate, etched the words "Paso por aqui" or "I passed by here," the oldest known European writing at El Morro. The U.S. Army Camel Corps — an unusual 19th-century experiment that tried using camels in the American Southwest as pack animals — also left its mark at El Morro. Breckenridge, Beale, and Long are three of the Camel Corp members whose names were scratched into the rock while traveling with their animals across the desert. 

Wondering at the stories behind the names has left visitors intrigued and inspired. "Some signatures were scribbled, some quite beautiful, and some encased," wrote Curtis and Peggy Mekemson in their travel blog, Wandering Through Time and Place. "Each represented a different life, a different story."

The easiest way to see these historic markings is to walk the Inscription Rock Trail. This paved pathway around the base of El Morro leads from the park's Visitor Center to the pool at the landmark's bottom. Visitors can gaze up at the sheer rock face and look for names, words, and images carved in the stone. With more time, guests can continue to hike the entire 2-mile Headland Trail. This brings hikers to the top of El Morro and the Atsinna Pueblo, built by the ancestral Puebloans in the 13^th century. It also gives visitors sweeping views of a box canyon. 

The El Morro National Monument is open year-round, and entrance is free. Spring and fall are the best seasons to visit. In summer, the heat can be intense with afternoon thunderstorms. In winter, though it's possible to visit, the Headland Trail can be icy and difficult to hike.  

There are few choices for restaurants or places to stay near the park, unfortunately, but campgrounds and picnic areas within the park are a good option. The town of Grants is on the way from Albuquerque, a convenient place to stock up on food and supplies. New Mexico is nicknamed the Land of Enchantment for its dramatic desert landscape. While justifiably renowned for scenic desert road trips, drivers in the state need to take care on the road: New Mexico was recently reported as the most dangerous state to drive in.