Wedged Between Two Glorious Rivers Is A Charming Texas Getaway With Scenic Surroundings And Rich History

West Texas is known for a lot of things, from its internationally recognized dark skies to the Chihuahuan Desert's astonishing biodiversity. It's also home to unique cultural destinations like Marfa, famed as a vibrant art-lovers' paradise in the middle of nowhere and 60 miles south of which you'll find the historic and neighborly border town of Presidio. Considering its location within America's oldest continuously cultivated region, it should come as no surprise that the community we know today is the result of centuries of cultural and ecological confluences. Speaking of confluences, Presidio is where the Rio Grande and Rio Concho (two of the largest rivers in the Big Bend area) meet. Whether you're passing through on a journey to Mexico to see Chihuahua's sensational canyon that's four times larger than Arizona's or simply to experience the best of West Texas, don't miss a stop in this inviting town.

Around 3,200 residents call Presidio home. Here, palm trees line the main thoroughfare, U.S.-67, as it approaches the international bridge to Mexico. A unique fusion of American and Mexican culture characterizes the city's feel. In this unassuming desert community with mountain views, you'll find history, nature, and great eats at your doorstep. Get the day started right with an iced brew from Presidio Pour-Over Coffee Co., then head to The Bean Café, a family-owned local favorite for breakfast or lunch. The restaurant makes its own tortillas, which you can also purchase to go. For more good food, scope out the excellent tacos at Casa Agave Cantina y Cocina, and cool down in the evening with ice cream or shaved ice sprinkled with Tajín from The Pink Flamingo. Between meals, explore Presidio's curious attractions for a world of adventure.

Presidio's St. Francis Plaza, which hosts the local farmer's market every Saturday, honors the Franciscans who organized a mission here in 1660. Today, it's a pleasantly green, shaded area that invites you to sit and enjoy the fountains and local events within a charming stucco enclosure. Less than half a mile down O'Reilly Street, immerse yourself in the early-18th-century Santa Teresa de Jesus Church, representing a parish known for hosting Texas' first Christmas festivities in 1683. For even more time traveling, check out the southeast edge of town to find Fort Leaton State Historic Site, which preserves a 19th-century structure built as a place for travelers to rest and resupply as they traversed the arduous route between central Texas and the southern hubs of Chihuahua and Mexico City. Typically, the day-use fee is $5 for visitors 13 years old and up, and Fort Leaton is day-use only. 

For a unique desert stay in Presidio, drop your bags at Rio Bravo Ranch. Its flagship vacation home, La Centinela, is a gorgeous adobe structure overlooking the Rio Grande, and the property also offers well-presented campsites. Alternatively, you can reserve a bunk in nearby Big Bend Ranch State Park's Sauceda Bunkhouse — just make sure to check with the park for updates, as the bunkhouse temporarily closed in December 2024 for repairs. If you enjoy camping, there are also a number of primitive sites scattered throughout the park with nightly fees ranging from $10 to $16. Many of these spots make excellent jumping off points to head further into Big Bend Ranch State Park via FM 170 and find put-ins along the Rio Grande for your kayak or canoe.

Across the Rio Grande in Mexico sits Presidio's sibling city, Ojinaga, visited so regularly by locals that the two towns act almost like one close-knit neighborhood. As Presidio County Attorney Rod Ponton told Texas Highways, "Presidio without Ojinaga is like San Antonio without the south side, without the missions. They are inseparable."

In terms of population, Ojinaga is over seven times larger than Presidio, making it a perfect food- and shopping-filled addition to your itinerary. Meanwhile, Presidio itself is less about flashy tourist attractions and more about true camaraderie, a laid-back philosophy, and embracing a unique blend of American and Mexican influences. Get a sense for this atmosphere by booking a guided tour with Angell Expeditions to see local vistas or canoe in the Rio Conchos.

Presidio might seem remote, but it's close to some famous destinations. It's just about an hour-and-a-half-long drive from Terlinga Ghost Town's vibrant art community and the Maverick Entrance to the remote, beautiful, and under-the-radar gem of Big Bend National Park. Plus, the surrounding mountain-laden desert has no shortage of gloriously scenic drives. Pinto Canyon Road, a winding dirt track west of U.S.-67 between Marfa and Presidio, is a picturesque route perfect for taking in the Chihuahuan Desert's striking mountains. The drive continues past Chinati Mountains State Natural Area — an in-development spot with no set opening date yet — and eventually intersects with FM 170, which parallels the Rio Grande and leads you back to Presidio.