The Lush Valleys Of Oregon's Blue Mountains Are Home To A Gorgeous State Park With An Abandoned Town
Nestled in the valleys and gentle hills of Grant County, Bates State Park captures the big sky beauty and history of rural Oregon. Opened in 2011, the park comes with all the advantages of being a new addition to the state's park system. Think automated lights in the bathrooms, thoughtful campground landscaping, and an overall feel of a space that's routinely and well maintained. Despite this, Bates is one of the least visited Oregon state parks.
Located half an hour outside John Day, the 131-acre park preserves the defunct timber mill that was once the heart of a thriving lumber town, Bates (formerly known as Batesville). From 1917 to the mid-1960s, over 400 workers (along with their families) formed a community in homes provided by the Oregon Lumber Company. But by the 1970s, a more advanced mill opened in John Day, and residents were given the option to buy their houses for a single dollar. Many workers dismantled their homes, while others relocated them to other areas, leaving the once-thriving town a ghostly shadow of its former self.
Bates State Park came about thanks to advocacy by former residents who didn't want to see their history disappear. Once home to a school with over 125 students, a church, and rows of cookie-cutter houses steps from the mill and timber yard, little of the original town remains today. However, visitors can learn about Bates through interpretive plaques spread along three miles of trails throughout the park. It's also a popular overnight stopover for cyclists traveling coast to coast along the TransAmerica Trail, and hikers exploring the Blue Mountains.
Things to do at Bates State Park
While some visitors to Bates State Park have noted that there isn't much to do there, it's the park's peaceful setting that truly sets it apart. Three miles of quiet paths thread through the park's meadows and pass by the old mill pond, one of the only remaining traces of the original town. The ultra-short Boulder Overlook Trail showcases views over the pond's rippled waters, while the Bates Pond Trail takes walkers right by its banks. You might even get a few bites if you throw in a fishing line. None of the trails are very difficult, which is a relief after spending a day cramped inside a car.
Technically, the campground is primitive, meaning it doesn't have RV hook-ups, showers, or toilets with running water. But, the 28 sites are mostly flat and cushioned by patches of extra-soft grass for pitching a tent, feature picnic tables, and views of evergreens and huge, granite mountains. There are also power outlets near the bike-in sites, so recharging your devices isn't a hassle. Some of the park's trees are young and don't provide the kind of shade you'd find at the prime camping grounds that won't cost you a dime outside of Bend, Oregon.
The park and campground are open between May and mid-October, but the campsites are only available on a walk-in basis. And, best of all, it costs relatively little to spend the night, with camp fees ranging from $7 to $11 a night. If you can't find a spot, check Middle Fork Campground just up the road.
Exploring the Blue Mountains from Bates State Park
Even though Bates State Park is tiny, the surrounding Blue Mountains are a paradise for outdoor lovers. The opportunities for adventure are nearly as endless as the region's unbound expanses of blue sky. With a location along the Middle Fork John Day River and several small creeks, you'll find plenty of high country fishing spots within driving distance. In particular, the banks along Middle Fork Road come alive with rainbow trout between the end of May and late October.
From the campground, it's also easy to venture into some of Malheur National Forest's massive wilderness areas. Conquer Strawberry Mountain's 9,000-foot summit and take in panoramic views while surrounded by butterflies and wildflowers. Or, tackle the 5.7-mile Monument Rock Loop. This high-altitude hike treks past a massive cairn that was likely stacked by shepherds who once grazed their flocks in these mountains. You can also hike to several fire lookouts, which are used to spot approaching wildfires. Fun fact: You can rent the Fall Mountain Lookout and wake up in a cozy bed with 360-degree views over the forests. Plus, it's only an hour from Bates.
Bates State Park is also only 30 minutes from Sumpter, the eastern endpoint of Oregon's Blue Mountains Scenic Byway, a route that passes through river canyons and painted hills. This makes it possible to drive all the way from Biggs to the area just outside Bates State Park on one of the Beaver State's most beautiful roads. And before you head out into the wild, make sure you stop at the coffee capital of the world to get properly caffeinated.