Colorado's Most Southwestern Town Is The Ute Tribe Capital With A Large Casino And Historic Park
Long ago, so the legend goes, Evil Ones roamed the Earth, so a Great Warrior God descended from the Heavens to put them in their place. They tussled, fighting punch for punch, kick for kick, stirring up dust and dirt, forming valleys with their heels, and hills with their silt. After an epic battle, the Evils Ones were defeated, but Warrior God was exhausted. He collapsed onto his back, blood seeping into the Earth, arms folded across his chest. To this day, he remains in restful repose as Sleeping Ute Mountain, looming over the northern edge of the Ute Mountain Ute Reservation in Southwest Colorado. The Weenuche band of the Ute Nation (there are two other Ute Mountain Ute bands that live in Utah) have passed this story down while continuing to steward the sacred mountain and its surrounding alpine mesas and shrubby desert canyons. The only town on the reservation is Towaoc, just 30 miles from the infamous Four Corners, a popular but overrated tourist attraction where Colorado nestles perfectly against Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico.
Within the over 1,000-square mile reservation, near Towaoc, lies the 125,000-acre Ute Mountain Tribal Park, a large, culturally rich "subdivision" of the reservation dedicated to preserving sacred lands and ancient cultural sites. Established in 1972, only Ute tribal members conduct tours here, guiding visitors to cliff dwellings, petroglyphs, and tribal relics. The park's been named one of "80 World Destinations for Travel in the 21st Century," by National Geographic (via Mesa Verde Country website). It's a beautiful, rural place with ancient terrain painted in sandstone colors, stretching for miles throughout the American West and marked occasionally by dramatic stone structures. The Utes originated in this region, and were not part of the forced migrations many other tribes endured at the hands of the U.S. government, thus their history remains deeply rooted in this land.
Take a guided tour of Ute Mountain Tribal Park
Towoac is located in Montezuma County, bordered by Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado's underrated archaeological wonder to the northeast, the Southern Ute to the south, and the Diné (Navajo) reservation to the east. About 1,000 people live in Towaoc, the majority of Utes on the reservation. The Utes were hunter gatherers and are among Colorado's oldest Indigenous peoples, along with Ancestral Puebloans, who eventually migrated south. Cultural traditions remain strong, expressed through stewardship of the tribal park and an annual powwow, typically held each August at nearby Ute Mountain Casino.
Ute Mountain Tribal Park is in a valley along the Mancos River and you can only visit with a Ute Mountain Ute guide. The Ute Mountain Ute control and maintain the land and preserve its ancestral ruins and cliff dwellings, and tours are designed to offer deep cultural context and insight. Many visitors say it's the highlight of their trip. "This is the real deal –– do the full day tour," said one Tripadvisor reviewer. "Our family was the only with a Ute Tour Guide –– who took us in and out of the cliff dwellings. It was absolutely amazing! Blows the National Park tours out of the water!" Another raved, "This was definitely the highlight of our trip to the [Four Corners]." Tours begin at the Tribal park Headquarters, run April through October, and should be reserved in advance.
The area is also a wildlife and birding hotspot. The Annual Ute Mountain Mesa Verde Birding Festival, held each May by the Cortez Cultural Center, draws birders from all over to spot nearly 200 species, from migratory fowl to raptors. The five-day birding bonanza includes lectures, guided tours, activities, and a bird-themed art show.
Make a pit stop at the Ute Mountain Casino Hotel while road-tripping through the great American West
The Ute Mountain Casino Hotel is a regional landmark, offering 90 hotel rooms and suites, multiple dining options, and the classic array of casino games and sports betting. In keeping with the rustic, Western aura, there's also an RV park with tent sites, a playground, and full camping amenities — plus a full-service Travel Center — making it a genuine desert oasis and an ideal base camp for exploring both Ute Tribal Park and Four Corners. For travelers planning a stay, it's worth noting the property is alcohol-free.
Cortez is the closest town off-reservation, located at the junction of Highways 160 and 491, about 15 miles north of Towaoc. It has several chain hotels, grocery stores, eateries, and even a brewery for those who want to explore the area without staying at the casino. For a sit-down meal, The Farm Bistro serves hearty classics and regional favorites like chicken pot pie and green chili smothered burgers, all made with local ingredients and paired with Colorado-crafted beers. Several local Mexican restaurants cater to every kind of spice craving — cozy up in classic vinyl booths and eat your salsa roja heart out.
Most people reach Towaoc by car as part of a road trip along the Million Dollar Highway (with a short detour to Ute Mountain) or while heading to or from Arizona since Towaoc is about four hours from the Grand Canyon's South Rim. There are a few regional airports nearby, including one in Cortez just 14 miles away, and Four Corners Regional Airport, about 60 miles out. The nearest major commercial airport is Albuquerque International Sunport in New Mexico (ABQ), roughly 240 miles away (about a four-hour drive).