Rick Steves Says To Try This Alternative For An Adventurous Break From Pasta And Pizza In Italy

When it comes to European culinary destinations, Italy reigns supreme on many a traveler's best-of rankings. And while perfectly charred Napoli pizza crusts and the rich bolognese from this underrated pasta city in Italy may be drool-inducing, all-around travel guru Rick Steves recommends adding another Italian specialty to your must-eat list: speck. From the mountainous Alto Adige region of Northern Italy, speck is a raw, air-cured meat that even the mildly curious culinary traveler should try at least once. 

"During a trip through Italy, I enjoy a break from pizza and pasta," Steves writes on his blog. "Wurst and sauerkraut are Tirolean clichés — more adventurous eaters seek out speck." Speck's flavor is similar to prosciutto crudo with a bit more punch. Foodies will tell you an authentic speck carries with it a hint of the Dolomite Mountains, where it's typically produced. Informed by centuries of farm-specific tradition, the preparation starts with a deboned pork leg. Next, aromatic spices, including bay leaves and juniper berries, are rubbed into the leg and allowed to marinate for weeks. Finally, three weeks of cold smoking using regional woods (like spruce or pine) give each leg a distinct taste, while 24 weeks of dry aging make up the last step. 

For speck to be the real deal, it needs to bear a Speck Alto Adige Protected Geographical Indication (PGI, or IGP on Italian products). Only 29 producers claim this certification, which means every step of the speck-making process is carefully regulated. However, plenty of providers make quality non-PGI speck, which is satisfactory for a first taste. 

For the most authentic speck, you'll need to travel to Alto Adige, also known as South Tyrol and Südtirol. Blessed with mirror-like lakes and jagged limestone peaks, this region is far less crowded when compared to Rome or Florence. Its history is deeply intertwined with Germanic culture, and you'll notice many German-derived words, particularly related to food. If you're coming from an international airport in Milan or Rome, you can take the train to Alto Adige's prominent cities, like Bolzano — the Dolomites' gateway, where Austria meets Italy.

Start by sampling speck in the heritage way: thinly sliced and eaten with a Schüttelbrot (a rye flatbread) and a glass of wine. Next, get your hands on canederli di speck, large dumplings stuffed with cheese, leftover herbs or vegetables, and, of course, speck. They're usually served in broth, but can also be eaten with butter. For a true deep dive into the world of speck, attend the Speck Festival South Tyrol held annually in Mt. Plan de Corones.

You don't have to make the trek north to try this regional specialty, though. You'll find dishes highlighting speck in restaurants across Italy, ranging from Roman pizzerias to eateries overlooking the sea near the Amalfi Coast's most dazzling gem. Look for "pizza speck" for an easy introduction to the cured meat, or sample ravioli stuffed with speck. However, one of the simplest ways to experience this delicacy is as an antipasto served alongside other cured meats and cheeses.