Canada's 'City Of Totems' Is A Walkable Island Outpost With Impressive Art And A Charming Victorian Downtown

Canada's westernmost province, British Columbia, covers a lot of geographical territory and includes the vibrant, idyllic city of Vancouver. People often think Vancouver is the capital of the province, but it's not. The regional governmental administrative center is actually Victoria (which is incidentally also Canada's brunch capital). And, just to keep it interesting, Victoria is on Vancouver Island, but Vancouver is not. Despite the confusion, Vancouver Island has hundreds of miles of picturesque landscapes to explore in an area that is larger than the state of Massachusetts, from seaside villages and hiking trails to beaches and shipwrecks for scuba diving.

Visitors who are interested in the area's Indigenous culture should travel an hour from Victoria International Airport to Duncan, known as the "City of Totems." There are more than 40 totem poles in the city's walkable downtown district, making it one of the world's largest collections of totems. There are also well-preserved historic buildings, some dating back to the Victorian era, which house shops, restaurants, and other businesses. 

A city of just under 50,000, it is a business center for the Cowichan Region and is located on the traditional lands of the Cowichan First Nation. City officials and leaders of the Cowichan Tribes work closely together on matters such as services and programming, and demonstrate cross-cultural respect. Duncan is right off the Trans-Canada Highway, around an hour from Vancouver Island's three ferry terminals. In addition to Victoria's airport, Nanaimo Airport is about 30 minutes from Duncan, and seaplanes land in summer in Maple Bay, seven miles away.

The display of totem poles in Duncan began in 1985 to beautify the city, attract visitors, and educate through Indigenous art. Totem pole carvings are a traditional way to tell family stories and historical events to future generations. Over the decades, the stories on each totem pole have been gathered and made available to the public. You can follow yellow footprints around downtown on a self-guided walking tour and read the interpretive signs; plus, there's an online map and virtual tour are also available. Biographical information about the carvers is included in the signage, as well as the meanings behind the design of the totem poles. 

Founded in 1887, the village was first known as Alderlea. In 1912, it was named after William Duncan, who donated land for the town site. You can learn about the city's history at the Cowichan Valley Museum, and still see buildings from that early time period downtown, including one of the oldest — the 1893 half-timbered storefront at 101 Station Street, which is now a florist. 

There are more than 300 businesses in the four square blocks of downtown, resulting in a city that claims it's "Small. In a big way." With more to do and see per square foot than anywhere else, the motto fits. Explore the area within the borders of Duncan, Boundary, Government, and Ingram streets to shop in boutiques selling clothing, jewelry, art, chocolate, and more on tree-lined streets with hanging flower baskets.

In addition to the totem pole walk, shopping, and eating in restaurants, there are plenty of things to keep you busy around Duncan. Browse art galleries like the Judy Hill Gallery, which specializes in handcrafted Pacific Northwest Native art. Natural history buffs will want to trek over to Maple Bay to check out Hand of Man, a natural history museum and cultural arts center. It's open daily and free, but donations are accepted. Watch raptor flight demonstrations at The Raptors, learn about the region's logging history at B.C. Forest Discovery Centre, or tour area vineyards and taste wines. 

There are plenty of options if you want to stay in the city, including several chain hotels and motels with reasonable rates. The Thunderbird Motor Inn is centrally located, rated 4.4 stars on Tripadvisor, and puts you less than 20 minutes by foot from the totems and downtown area.

If you have time and are planning to explore different areas and experiences on Vancouver Island, consider staying at the 100-room Naturally Pacific Resort, a two-hour drive from Duncan. Opened in 2024, it is an elegant resort where forests, mountains, and oceans meet, so it's the perfect spot from which to explore the northern part of Vancouver Island.