Set Between Phoenix And Sedona Is A Stagecoach Escape With River Trails, Rustic Pies, And Boutique Finds

Stagecoach robberies, fragrant pies, and desert trails: What sounds like the setting of a Western movie is just another day in Black Canyon City, an adventurous escape about halfway between Phoenix and Sedona. Situated in the foothills of the Bradshaw Mountains, this small town packs a lot of punch with its historic sites and nature trails. Both the Agua Fria River and Interstate 17 run through Black Canyon City, the latter of which partly runs on Arizona's first stagecoach route, which connected Phoenix to Prescott.

When that trail was built in 1878, it quickly became a goldmine for robbers. Literally, since the Bradshaw Mountains were rich in gold and silver, and mining communities were popping up, although they've now become ghost towns with usual names, like Nothing, Arizona. Robbers found easy targets on the Black Canyon City — then Cañon — route, since the road was too narrow for stagecoaches to turn around and too tiring for animals to muster the energy to flee. It was so dangerous that Wells Fargo stopped doing shipments along this road, although you can see the late 19th-century Wells Fargo stagecoach stop in town today, an evocative remnant of the town's wild past.

If you're looking for a more flavorful trip to the past, stop by the Rock Springs Café, a historic 20th-century general store and hotel that's now on the map thanks to its world-famous rustic pies. Vintage stores and boutique coffee shops also attract visitors to this town that offers access to the 93-mile Black Canyon Recreational Trail, an epic trek that winds through the desert along the Agua Fria River, all the way from Phoenix to Prescott.

Homemade pies and vintage finds in Black Canyon City

One of Black Canyon City's biggest attractions is the Rock Springs Café, which draws in locals and tourists alike with its delicious pies served in a historic location. A savvy 19-year-old man opened this spot in 1917 as a makeshift location and turned it into a proper hotel and general store in 1918 to serve the area's miners and ranchers.

But the pie craze didn't begin until the '70s, when his daughter took over and opened a restaurant, where she hired experts specializing in fruit and cream delights. The best-seller flavor is the bourbon pecan, and other favorites include Tennessee lemon and peach crumble, which you can order whole or by the slice when you visit (with a scoop of ice cream, of course). There's often a wait to eat, but you can browse the general store selling local products and enjoy the old-timey charm of the location while you wait. If you're still hungry for dessert, the charming Laveen Village just outside of Phoenix has award-winning pies.

Another highlight is Shiloh Coffeehouse, whose excellent coffee, food, and hospitality have gotten it five stars on both Yelp and Google. Burritos, açaí bowls, and yogurt parfaits all sate the appetites of customers heading to or from Sedona, and they even have smooth, properly whisked matcha. If you're looking to go shopping, you can check out one of the town's thrift stores, like Bargain Boutique, which offers a diverse vintage selection. There is also Toni's Thrift Shop, a family-owned business that often gets praised for its kind owners.

Hiking around and getting to Black Canyon City

Besides its historical significance, Black Canyon City offers access to the Sonoran landscape via the Black Canyon National Recreational Trail, which starts just outside the town. This long-haul route follows one originally used by the area's Indigenous peoples, and it was later turned into a livestock path in 1919. This hike takes you along and across the Agua Fria River, as you make your way through Arizona's iconic desert terrain bordered by the Bradshaw Mountains and marked by large saguaros and paloverdes.

The path is open to hikers, bikers, and horseback riders, and you can take it down to the Agua Fria's banks, where Gooding willows and salt cedars line the path, or just enjoy the sweeping views of the river before turning around. The river usually has water in the springtime and will fill up during summer storms, but it's best to do this hike in the off-season, unless you want to head out on an early summer morning.

The best way to visit Black Canyon City is to follow in the footsteps of the stagecoaches that barreled down its road all the way until 1917 and drive there. While in the area, stop by Camp Verde, a high desert hideaway with cliffside ruins and small-town charm between Phoenix and Flagstaff. The closest major airport is Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport, which is just 50 minutes away, while the Flagstaff Pulliam Airport is an hour and a half away.

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