Spain's Mysterious Village Of The Witches Is One Of Europe's Best Halloween Destinations

In the heart of Spain's pastoral Basque Country, lush green hillsides punctuated by red-roofed, timber-framed farmhouses and roaming sheep are the norm. There is a small village, however, that has earned a more ominous reputation for its history with witchcraft. Zugarramurdi, known as the village of witches, is charming to visit year-round, but particularly appealing in the fall if you're seeking a spooky destination in Europe to visit for Halloween. Especially if you're looking for something off the beaten path.

Witchcraft lore is rooted in history, as Zugarramurdi's past is synonymous with the Basque Witch Trials that took place during the Spanish Inquisition. While the town dates back to 1154, it was in the early 1600s when local residents are said to have clashed with "witches" who were ultimately imprisoned and sent to Logroño for the Basque witch trials. Both men and women were considered to be witches, and the "akelarres," or witches' gatherings, would take place in the meadows just outside the village center. The Basque word akelarre technically means "field of the billy-goat," but it has become synonymous with witchcraft as the devil is said to have manifested himself in the form of a man-goat, who was typically present at these gatherings, dancing with participants.

To delve into the town's notorious past, visitors should start at the Zugarramurdi Witches Museum. Admission costs less than $10, and you can see the whole thing in under an hour. Presented in multiple languages, the purpose of the museum is to paint an authentic picture of what Basque life was like in Zugarramurdi 400 years ago. It also honors the thousands of men and women who were accused of witchcraft, or at the time, rituals relating to folk medicine and medicinal plants. The Witches Museum will challenge your perception of witches, while also priming you for an eerie visit to the infamous Zugarramurdi Cave, where they used to gather.

The main reason to visit Zugarramurdi for Halloween is the Zugarramurdi Cave. The heart of Basque mythology and association with witchcraft, this is where the akelarre gatherings would take place. Just a 10-minute walk from the center of town, the cave only costs a few dollars to enter, but there are a few rules. Visitors are asked to observe the cave in silence, without touching the geological formations, in order to preserve their delicate walls. Created by Hell's Stream, a creek that has run from the forest for thousands of years, the limestone karst cave consists of a massive cavity with two galleries. Measuring 400 feet long and 40 feet wide, the cave was an ideal gathering spot for the local peasants to celebrate their festivals.

In the early 1600s, local life was rooted in nature and tied to the Earth. For the locals, a strong reverence for Mother Earth, or "Ama Lur," in Basque, led them to consider the Zugarramurdi Cave to be the heart of Ama Lur, which is another reason why they chose to hold their rituals, ceremonies, and gatherings there.

When the owner of the land, who happened to be the Abbot of the monastery nearby, deemed them to be witches, he reported them to the Inquisition. Soon thereafter, 300 people were arrested, accused of denying Catholicism and creating potions inspired by the devil. Ultimately, 11 people were condemned to be burned at the stake, a very dark spot in Basque history. Legend has it that if visitors are silent and listen carefully, the voices and spirits of the witches can still be heard within the cave. While it might not be the raging Halloween party you might find in Transylvania, a visit to the Zugarramurdi cave certainly conjures up a heady mix of mystery, witchcraft folklore, and tragic murders that will make you pause.

To get to Zugarramurdi, the closest airports are the Biarritz Airport (BIQ), 40 minutes away, and the San Sebastian Airport (EAS) in Hondarribia, just under an hour's drive. However, the Bilbao International Airport (BIO) is much bigger, allowing for more international flight options, and if you're planning a trip to Zugarramurdi, you should definitely allow for time to explore other towns in the Basque Country as well. 

Pro-tip: Fly into Bilbao and rent a car. The driving distance from Bilbao is just around two hours, but if you can spare the time, take a couple of days to leisurely explore the stunning Basque coast as you make your way to Zugarramurdi, stopping for lunch in Getaria, a Basque fishing village known for world-class food. Further down the coast, check out a surf town that has one of the best beaches in Spain as well as a charming old town. Alternatively, you could fly into the Biarritz Airport (BIQ) in France and explore the French Basque coast on your way to Zugarramurdi. Visit Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a quaint village with a bustling market scene, or explore the beachside bars and cute boutiques in laid-back Guethary.

As far as accommodations in Zugarramurdi go, you won't find any major hotels or even small chain hotels. What you will find, however, are charming "casas rurales," or rural houses that are the Spanish version of a B&B. EscapadaRural.com and Booking.com tend to have the most options if you want to stay in Zugarramurdi, or very close by. If you prefer a more traditional hotel experience and just plan to visit Zugarramurdi as a day trip, you'll find plenty of options in San Sebastian or Biarritz.