Washington's Lovely City Best Known As The World's 'Oyster Capital' Is Full Of Recreation For A Fun Seattle Escape
"The genie was out of the bottle," Anthony Bourdain once wrote of his first oyster — and he wasn't the first to fall under its spell. Many writers and epicures have waxed poetic about this unique comestible — the way it cracks open, alive and writhing, glistening in briny nutrients with the taste of the world on its living lips. Washington is among the top oyster-producing states in the U.S., and many of its oysters come from Willapa Bay, a 135-square-mile estuary fed by the Pacific Ocean and the freshwater Willapa River, home to diverse ecosystems and the perfect salinized cocktail for bivalve breeding. On the bay's east side, across the water from Oysterville, a charming coastal community serving excellent seafood, is South Bend (not to be confused with Indiana), the self-proclaimed "Oyster Capital of the World." You'll know you've arrived not only by the marine mist but by the six-foot concrete oyster half-shell at the Robert Bush Memorial Park waterfront.
Oysters grown in the cold waters of Willapa Bay are bright and saline-forward — less "mineral-y" than East Coast oysters — with a clean, buttery texture and cucumber finish. The bay's relatively clean, oxygen-rich waters contribute to the "merroir," the taste of an oyster as reflected from its environment. The region forms part of Washington's Shellfish Trail, along which small towns serve up the state's finest. If you "don't like seafood," here's a place where you should try it again.
Just 130 miles southwest of Seattle, South Bend is a lovely detour or easily accessible side quest when visiting the Emerald City. Fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) just 116 miles away, or take one of Amtrak's scenic routes — the Coast Starlight from Los Angeles, or the Empire Builder from Chicago – and rent a car.
As part of the Evergreen Coast, South Bend boasts lots of wildlife
Located along the "Evergreen Coast" of the Pacific Northwest, South Bend is a refreshing counterpoint to the urban gloom of Seattle. One of the region's biggest draws is the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, which protects over 21,000 acres of diverse habitat around the bay — from temperate rainforest and sandy beaches to tidal flats, old-growth coastal cedar, and winding streams. Wildlife flourishes here: Endangered species like western snowy plovers and marbled murrelets attract birders year-round, while wild salmon spawn in the stream in late summer and fall. Roosevelt elk, black-tailed deer, migrating shorebirds, and even occasional black bears and cougars call the refuge home. Explore several trails, including a unique boardwalk where art installations are intermixed with natural landscape. You can also harvest wild clams or oysters along designated shoreline zones, provided you hold a valid shellfish license. For a truly off-grid experience, take a boat to Long Island, a wilderness camping area with just five primitive sites — ideal for getting the real taste of wild Washington. A limited hunting season for elk opens in September.
Go kayaking along the Willapa River for a different perspective on the scenic town. South Bend also lies on the Willapa Hills State Park Trail, a 56-mile rail-trail that connects the coast to Chehalis. Once the Northern Pacific Railway line, it traverses farms, forests, and wetlands, and ends (or begins) in South Bend at an oyster shell mound beside the estuary. The South Bend section is paved for 5.2 miles, but some parts beyond that may be closed due to erosion, so check this local map for updates before venturing out.
Small-town South Bend offers fresh seafood and historic vibes
Quiet, coastal South Bend offers stunning views of Willapa Bay and is a popular stop for travelers along famed U.S. Route 101. Though it covers 1.6 square miles with a population of under 1,800, the town is rich in character. The Pacific County Courthouse is one of its crown jewels. Built in 1910, the architectural gem was once nicknamed "The Gilded Palace of Extravagance," thanks to its original $132,000 price tag. The cement columns were painted to mimic marble — reportedly by a county jail prisoner assigned to the task. But the showstopper is the 26-foot stained glass dome crowning the building, complemented by more stained glass in the courtroom. Step inside and look up!
Of course, you're here to eat oysters. The Chester Club and Oyster Bar is a "real old" shack lofted above the Willapa River. Order fried oysters, shooters, or raw on the half-shell — they're all local, all fresh, and served with cold beers. Nearby River View Dining is another local favorite serving fresh oysters alongside barbecue oysters, clam chowder, fish n' chips, and more. If you need a break from bivalves, try Tienda Mexicana Betzy's, often marked by a crowd. This real-deal Mexican fare's popular for its beef barbacoa — slow-cooked in rich, red broth — as well as crispy fish tacos. Stop at Willapa Brewery for craft pints and pizza. Sample from a rotating tap list and pair your beverage with a margherita pizza. Don't miss the historic artifacts on the walls, which chronicle South Bend's legacy.
Just 5 miles away, Raymond — South Bend's "twin town" — is also worth visiting for the Northwest Carriage Museum and the Willapa Seaport Museum, highlighting the region's history of sailing, logging, fishing, and oystering.