The 'Toughest Town In Texas' Is A Whimsical Little City With World-Famous Barbecue And A Charming Downtown

Texas is so big that it can be overwhelming to choose where to begin. There's actually a case to be made for starting small, where a lot of Texas' iconic traditions began. Luling is the quintessential Texas town with railroads, oil, and outstanding barbecue that locals insist is the best in the country. (Just don't tell that to their neighbors in Lockhart, a foodie city situated between Austin and San Antonio called "Texas' BBQ Capital.")

Regardless of where you stand on Texas barbecue, there is no arguing that Luling is a charmer of a city. Once the "toughest town in Texas," Luling transformed from a rowdy cowboy staging post to an oil-rich town and, now, to a colorful slice of Texas history and cuisine. It's situated off I-10 between San Antonio and Houston, about a 50-mile drive south of Austin. You'll know you're approaching Luling on the I-10 when you see the cars lining up for the giant Buc-ee's fast food and gas station. At more than 75,000 square feet, it's officially the world's largest convenience store. Exit past the purple blooming acres of Luling Lavender Fields and head to the giant watermelon water tower at the city's eastern entrance on Pierce Street, an homage to Luling's sweet cash crop.

Luling is a town that was built around railroads, cattle, cash crops, and oil. Founded in 1874, Luling was once the westernmost stop of the Southern Pacific Railroad, but its fortunes skyrocketed when oil was discovered in 1922. Though no longer at its oil-producing peak (watermelons and tomatoes are significant income earners now), there are still more than 180 oil wells within the city limits. Keep an eye out for pumpjacks scattered around town. Many are whimsically decorated and make excellent use of the moving machinery, like the quarterback pitching his arm back for a throw.

To explore how oil transformed Luling, visitors can go to the Luling Oil Museum, located inside a historic mercantile store dating from 1885. Visitors can then meander around Luling's Main Street District to check out seasonal markets, restaurants, and shops. From there, head to Zedler Mill Museum and City Park. This historic gristmill, built in 1874, was one of the first grain processing plants in the area, using the power of the San Marcos River. Today, the mill and other industrial heritage buildings are preserved in a peaceful city park. Visitors can follow guided audio tours to learn about life in 19th- and 20th-century Luling or wind along walking trails by the river.

Despite the industrial and agricultural heritage of Luling, the city is also surrounded by nature. The Zedler Mill Paddling Trail is a gentle 6-mile water route past trees and wildlife. The take-out point is just across from Zedler Mill, but make sure you don't miss it. There's a dam right after. If you want to continue exploring, drive down to neighboring Gonzales and walk through Palmetto State Park, a stunning state park hidden in the lush "tropics" of central Texas.

For foodies, the main attraction in Luling is the barbecue. City Market is the top spot for ribs, brisket, and sausage — the only meats it serves. It is a classic Central Texas barbecue experience. Walk into the smokehouse and breathe in the aroma of meat smoking over the indirect heat of wood-fired brick pits. Diners order by weight straight from the pitmaster. The meat is sliced, weighed, and deposited on butcher paper, which you then carry (with your own two hands) into the main dining room.

There, you can grab barbecue sauce, sliced white onions, pickle chips, pickled jalapeños, and white bread, as well as sides like baked beans and potato salad. That's it — no pretense or plates, and it's cash only. While you're in town, you can also check out Luling Bar-B-Q. The distinct style of barbecue cooking you'll find in Luling comes from Czech, Black American, Mexican, and German culinary traditions, the latter of which you can see in the nearby German-rooted city of Schulenberg.

Of course, no visitor to Luling can leave without a slice of sweet, delicious watermelon. The best time for that is the end of June, when Luling's annual Watermelon Thump is in full swing. This exuberant watermelon festival has been going strong since 1954 and features activities like champion melon judging, live music, and seed-spitting contests.