The Once-Thriving Mediterranean Island Beach Resort That's Now An Abandoned Ghost Town

The largest islands in the Mediterranean, Sicily and Sardinia, are both Italian. But when it comes to the national identity of the third-largest, Cyprus — well, it's complicated. This comparatively hidden paradise with postcard-worthy beaches is one of the only "divided countries" in the world. The southern part of the island is internationally recognized as the Republic of Cyprus. But the northern section is controlled by Turkey, and due to the conflict over the region, one of its most beautiful beach resorts, the once-thriving Varosha, is now a ghost town by the sea. 

To understand what happened to the popular beach town, you have to know some basic information about how the island was split in two. After a long history of colonization, Cyprus became independent in 1960. But Greece pushed to unite with the island, then Turkish forces invaded in 1974, occupying the northern third of Cyprus. The Turkish army set up barracks in the town of Varosha on the island's eastern coast, transforming the resort into a military zone. 

The beach town, previously considered a glittering gem on the Eastern Mediterranean Riviera, would never be the same. Its luxury resorts, high-end shops, and glitzy casinos were forced to close. As Ezgican Özdemir wrote in IWMPost, the magazine of the Institute for Human Sciences, the once-lively resort became derelict. "Over the years, the windows and plaster fell off of old hotels, dust collected in luxury car dealerships, and people's belongings remained untouched (after heavy looting by the military)." If you're interested in learning about ghost towns around the world, consider reading up on Houtouwan, an abandoned fishing village in China, and Sandon, British Columbia's most fascinating ghost town, once referred to as "North America's Monte Carlo."

The story behind the abandoned beach town of Varosha

Today, Varosha's high-rise buildings are empty shells along the waterfront. It goes without saying that travelers can't plan a vacation in town — and yet, as Özdemir writes about in their article. "The Strange Case of Varosha in Cyprus," the Turkish military has partly reopened some sections of the resort. In 2017, part of the beach was opened to Turkish nationals, who could even rent beach chairs and umbrellas to enjoy the sun and sea. 

Later, in 2020, some streets were opened to the general public. "Sightseers can now take photos and stroll through the streets, with caution signs all around them as the buildings could collapse at any moment," wrote Özdemir. She noted that some island residents "use the once-abandoned streets for morning walks and biking exercises," and that, controversially, Turkey is reportedly planning a renovation of the hollowed-out seaside town. 

According to recent travelers who left reviews on TripAdvisor, it's possible to enter Varosha through a military checkpoint and walk around the empty streets. Some said they rented bicycles, had a coffee, or even sat on the beach. But be mindful that exploring a hotly contested area controlled by the Turkish military may not be culturally sensitive — or very pleasant. "You will feel like you are on the set of a disaster movie," commented one visitor from Croatia. "A very sad place," said a Hungarian tourist who came on an organized tour. "Once a thriving town, now just... a disaster zone due to the failure of international politics." If you love the idea of exploring time capsule-like towns but would prefer a less complicated travel experience, check out these five ghost towns you can visit along Route 66 in the United States.

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