Colorado's Rugged National Conservation Area Is A Canyon-Filled Hiking Retreat With Trails And Boating
Arizona is the home of the world-famous Grand Canyon National Park, and Utah's Navajo Nation is famous for its breathtaking slot canyons. But there's another Western state that's known for its deep valleys and canyons. Colorado's underrated national park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, is famous for its surreal landscapes and dramatic cliffs, while the adjacent Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area, about an hour away, is a canyon-filled retreat for hiking and boating.
Established in 2009 and overseen by the Bureau of Land Management, the conservation area is the newest in the state, with more than 210,000 acres of protected land, including red-rock canyons and striking sandstone bluffs. Cutting through the park are the Gunnison River and the Old Spanish National Historic Trail, a 19th-century trade route that ran from Santa Fe to Los Angeles. Extending into Arizona, Nevada, Colorado, and Utah, the trail was historically traveled by mule packs. Find out about the historic Santa Susana Pass just outside of L.A., once a transportation corridor between Spanish-built missions.
Today, the section of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail that passes through the eastern part of Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area is a scenic escape for hikers. There are several access points, and while there are some services in the recreation area, the National Park Service warns that parts of the trail are rugged and remote. The NPS suggests carefully consulting a map before heading out, dressing in layers, carrying a first aid kit and plenty of water, and preparing for varied weather and extended sun exposure — there's little shade along the way. One hike to try is the Old Spanish Trail loop, a moderate 12.6-mile route that starts and ends near Grand Junction. "Always great views of the Gunnison River and the bluffs," said one past visitor on AllTrails.
Float down the river in the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area
The Gunnison River and several creeks flow through Dominguez-Escalante's vibrant landscapes, providing excellent opportunities for boating. Avid kayakers and rafters love the classic 39-mile journey down the Lower Gunnison River from Confluence Park in Delta to Whitewater. It takes two to three days to make the journey, which typically features Class I and II rapids, though it's also possible boat along shorter sections of the route — you could start in Escalante Canyon and float 29 miles to Whitewater, or at Bridgeport for a 14-mile trip to the takeout point. Note that the river runs colder and faster in spring, when it's recommended mostly for experienced boaters — later, in fall, the conditions are more suitable for kayaking.
If you're making the full trip, you could break for primitive camping (available on a first-come, first-served basis) in Dominguez Canyon and hike to see ancient rock art and a waterfall at Big Dominguez Canyon along a moderate 12.5-mile trail. If you're planning to camp, you'll need a free camping permit, which you can pick up at the Escalante Boat Launch or in Bridgeport.
No matter when you go, be sure to check out updated information on the current streamflow (and weather) before embarking, and remember that the recreation area is also a wildlife habitat for a variety of species, from bighorn sheep and black bears to golden eagles and mountain lions. Whether you're planning to hike or boat (or both), Bridgeport is a convenient spot to access the conservation area. It's 22 miles south of Grand Junction, a mountain gem in the heart of wine country with its own red rock trails to explore, and the perfect place to stock up on supplies for your outdoor adventures.