Philadelphia's Own 'Little Italy' Is An Inviting Slice Of Europe With Colorful Streets And Excellent Eats

Some of us, myself included, would rather be in Italy right now. The next best thing on this side of the Atlantic is going for pasta and gelato at one of the historic Little Italy neighborhoods located in cities across the country. Though not as famous as its counterpart in New York,  nor as large as the wonderful Little Italy in San Diego, the version we have right here in Philadelphia is one of my favorite areas since I moved here six years ago — it's a great spot to sip cappuccino in a cozy cafe or buy oranges from a street vendor, à la "The Godfather." Sometimes, the neighborhood's ambience even reminds me of European cities where I've been lucky enough to live in the past: Rome and Prague. For anyone chasing a European atmosphere in Philadelphia, the Little Italy neighborhood comes closest, with its vibrant streets and lively food scene.

The official name for Philly's Little Italy neighborhood is Bella Vista, Italian for "beautiful view." Just south of Center City, the area was originally a landing spot for Philadelphia newcomers, including Irish immigrants and previously enslaved African-American people who arrived from the American South in the mid-19th century. A few decades later, the neighborhood became the first in town to be settled by Italian immigrants — and thanks in part to Bella Vista's reputation as a welcoming spot for outsiders, it remains an especially inviting place to visit.

Then, as now, Bella Vista centers around one major feature: the Italian Market, a diverse foodie paradise that's one of the oldest open-air markets in the country. Also known as the South 9th Street Market, it stretches for over 20 blocks, lined with colorful fruit stands, Italian bakeries, butchers, spice merchants, European-style gourmet food shops, and family-run eateries. No matter which way you stroll, you'll quickly find something you want to eat. 

The Italian Market is home to the original location of Di Bruno Bros., a landmark cheese and charcuterie shop that's been in business since 1939. The staff will gladly offer samples of their gourmet products, from delicious bright green Castelvetrano olives (my personal favorite) to thinly sliced Pecorino Romano. On the south side of the market, look for Termini Brothers Bakery, an old-school Italian pastry shop dating back to the 1920s. Philly locals say the family-run bakery turns out the best biscotti and cannoli in town, though I'm partial to another of their original recipes: the flaky, exquisitely crafted sfogliatelle. And if it's perfect cacio e pepe you're after, try the highly popular Fiorella, Marc Vetri's modern pasta bar set in a historic landmark that was previously a long-running butcher shop.

Though plenty of people come to Bella Vista for Italian treats, it's worth noting that the neighborhood (and its dining options) are more diverse today. This part of the city has expanding Asian and Hispanic communities, with restaurants to match. An unforgettable place for tacos is the cheerful South Philly Barbacoa, presided over by the Mexican chef Cristina Martinez, who was prominently featured on Netflix's "Chef's Table." A family member recently booked their catering service for a house party, and as one of the people standing in line at their in-home taco bar, I can confirm that the slow-cooked lamb and handmade tortillas were a big hit. 

Whatever you choose to indulge in, go for a passeggiata (stroll) around the neighborhood afterward. Bella Vista's colorful streets, dotted with vintage neon signs, striped awnings, and charming storefronts, are so picturesque that they were immortalized on the silver screen. Sylvester Stallone's character goes for a run down South 9th Street, right through the heart of the Italian Market, in an iconic scene from "Rocky" (1976), and the neighborhood was later used as a filming location for several sequels as well as "Creed" (2015). Fans of the film won't want to miss a visit to the Rocky statue at the foot of the Philadelphia Museum of Art in Fairmount, one of the city's most cultured areas.