Between Houston And Austin Is Texas' 'Watermelon Capital' With A Vibrant Market And Action-Packed Rodeo

Small Texas towns like Hempstead are beloved for their old-fashioned charm. With a population of just around 7,200 people (per World Population Review), this blink-and-you-miss-it stop lies between two of the state's bigger cities. Located about 100 miles east of Austin's eclectic, trendy neighborhoods and 50 miles northwest of renowned and beloved Houston, Hempstead allows visitors to indulge in numerous nearby live music venues, restaurants, museums, and other handy amenities. 

Although Hempstead's interior is nothing to write home about, it has more than meets the eye when you explore the outskirts of town. Take a trip to Krolczyk Meat Market & Drive — the number one store in Hempstead, according to Tripadvisor — and browse their delectable selection. One visitor boldly claims it has the "Best sausage anywhere." The John Fairey Garden is another must-visit, and one of the top three attractions in the area. Discover stunning plants that thrive in the Texas climate, see how many species you can identify among a collection of over 3,000, and stop by the nursery between Tuesday and Saturday (9 a.m. until 3 p.m.) to purchase some of your favorites.

When it comes to accommodations, options are limited, but you can find a handful of Airbnb rentals in neighboring towns and a few affordable hotels within Hempstead. The Summit Inn has rooms for around $58 per night. Nearby cities like Houston and Brenham have more options, but staying as close to this slow-paced, rural town as possible allows you to experience what makes it so special, including the annual Waller County Fair & Rodeo and the iconic Hempstead Watermelon Festival. 

Despite its history of growing corn and cotton, Hempstead is now more commonly recognized as the "Watermelon Capital of Texas" thanks to fertile land that has proven perfect for sprouting watermelons over many decades. One of the most recognized growers in Hempstead is Diiorio Farms Partnership, open 8 a.m. until 6.30 p.m. most days. This locally-loved roadside market sells deliciously fresh veggies and fruit, like their juicy yellow meat watermelons. The town was the largest watermelon shipper in the country up until the 1940s, and in 1990, they began properly celebrating this heritage by creating the annual watermelon festival.

Hempstead Watermelon Festival offers residents and visitors a two-day line-up of live music, fun vendors, and of course, a lot of watermelon. With free entry for all, attendees can watch the crowning of the Hempstead Watermelon Queen, take part in the Watermelon Grower's Contest, or try their hand at the Cornhole Tournament. There's a car show for motorheads, a quilt show for patchwork pros, and even a dazzling parade. Plus, root for your favorites at the BBQ cookoff, and swirl and swig at the wine tasting event.

The festival takes place in summer each year, in mid-July in 2026. Humidity can be rather uncomfortable, with average temperatures sometimes exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit , so for milder weather, you may prefer to visit Hempstead between early April and late May, or the middle of September and late October.

About an hour's drive from Houston's George Bush Intercontinental Airport via the Sam Houston Tollway and U.S. 290, Hempstead's Waller County Fairgrounds can be found off Market Road 359. Home of the Waller County Fair & Rodeo, these grounds open in fall to host what one Google reviewer called "a true country rodeo." Some of the most thrilling and smile-inducing events include Barrel Racing, where riders must speedily guide their horse around three barrels in a specific formation, and Mutton Bustin', where children cling to running sheep for as long as possible. Most of the action takes place under a covered barn, providing shade from the Texas sun. The flurry of activities lasts over a week, and tickets start from $15 for a day pass.

Elsewhere in Texas, Bandera might be known as the 'Cowboy Capital of the World', but Hempstead gives it a run for its money, with the Waller County Fair Association taking its rodeo very seriously to compete with some of the biggest in the state. President Bobby Coursey, told Twisted Rodeo, "We want other fairs to look at us and be like, 'What are they doing that makes them so successful?'"

If the rodeo isn't for you, the fair also has the esteemed Fair Court to select the queen, live music acts, and a parade in downtown Hempstead. The grounds are also used for other events throughout the year, like the Crawfish Boil and Demolition Derby. While somewhat sleepy Hempstead might look unassuming from the outside, spending time here reveals just how much there is to do in this 6.6-square mile Texas gem.