Between Santa Rosa And Redwood National Park Is California's Abandoned Fort Turned Historic State Park

For towering redwoods and coastal drives along beaches without a soul in sight, Humboldt County beckons travelers with treasures excluded from the usual Northern California travel itinerary. One place visitors can learn about the area's pioneer-era history while enjoying the coastal scenery for which Humboldt is known is Fort Humboldt Historic State Park.

Overlooking Humboldt Bay in Eureka, Fort Humboldt State Historic Park perches on a grassy hill approximately 200 miles north of Santa Rosa and 40 miles south of Redwood National and State Parks. President Ulysses S. Grant once manned the fort during his pre-Civil War days; however, its origins date to before the 18th president served as quartermaster. As Western expansion progressed, gold hunters flooded present-day Humboldt Bay in search of a get-rich-quick windfall, clashing with indigenous communities who already lived there. The U.S. army garrisoned the bluff in 1853, creating one of several forts in the area designed to manage indigenous-settler relations. "Though they did mitigate some of the worst conflicts, the soldiers here generally aimed at quelling Indian resistance. At times, captured Indians were imprisoned adjacent to the fort or sent for detainment across the bay," per the Humboldt County Historical Society. 

Today, only one original building stands — a structure that served as the hospital. However, the park offers reconstructed buildings, museum exhibits, interpretive paths, and relics that tell the stories of soldiers, loggers, indigenous communities, and others who make up the foundation of Humboldt pioneer history.

Featuring huge patches of manicured grass with some shade, Fort Humboldt Historic Park is a blink-and-you-miss-it stop in Eureka, one of California's most affordable towns to retire. But those who take the time will find plenty to do. Start by visiting the Surgeon's Quarters, a reconstruction of the historic home where the fort's doctor once resided, complete with a wood-burning stove, a table set with prop food, and other items representing life in the 1800s. The grounds surrounding the cottage feature a medicine garden filled with plants like lemon balm and borage used to treat ailments ranging from anxiety to heart disease, all marked with clear signage.

Next, stop by the Fort Hospital, a restored building converted into a museum that lays bare the often violent history between settlers, the fort, and indigenous people. Docent-led tours are also available, but you must submit a request in advance via the park's email. 

Finish your visit by taking a stroll through the open-air logging exhibit, a collection of two steam locomotives, historic machinery, and interpretive plaques that bring to life Humboldt's timber-harvesting heritage. Keep an eye out for the park's five "steam donkeys." These steam-powered winches replaced horses and other work animals in logging setups, increasing the speed at which loggers could remove the redwoods that once covered the park's grassy bluff and the entire county. At only 0.5 miles, it's not a true hike but an interpretive walk.

To manage expectations, it's important for visitors to understand that Fort Humboldt isn't tucked away deep in the redwoods, nor is it directly on the coast. Bayshore Mall separates the park from the ocean, and you'll need to head to Humboldt Redwoods State Park to see a paradise of towering trees. However, the park offers a convenient rest stop for anyone driving Highway 101 who wants to stretch their legs and learn about the area instead of simply passing through. 

Like many places along the Northern California coast, the fort experiences mild weather throughout the year. However, fog should be expected in the mornings and evenings, so make sure you dress in layers. Those visiting during the winter and spring (November through May) will likely encounter rain. Pack an umbrella and shoes you don't mind getting a little dirty for exploring the outdoor sections of the park. 

Open from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., the fort is only available for daytime visits. If you want to camp in the area, consider making a reservation at Humboldt Redwoods State Park or Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park's quiet beaches and coastal redwoods.