Washington's Once-Called 'Little Chicago' Is A Riverfront City With Scenic Views, Outdoor Fun, And A Brewery
When you think of cities in Washington state, Seattle almost always comes to mind. This makes plenty of sense, as the Emerald City is the largest metropolis in the Pacific Northwest, but there are still plenty of other communities in Washington worthy of your attention, including Kelso.
Situated 125 miles south of Seattle along the banks of the Cowlitz River, just 50 minutes from Portland International Airport (PDX), this town of around 12,000 residents sits directly across from the larger city of Longview, which is primarily known for its paper mill. Kelso was settled in 1847 by a Scottish surveyor who named it after his hometown, and was once known as "little Chicago" due to the high number of gambling houses, saloons, and taverns catering to the loggers working in the area.
Today, Kelso offers small-town vibes along with plenty of opportunities for outdoor recreation, since not only is the Cowlitz River right there, which is renowned for its excellent fishing, but Kelso is also just a stone's throw from the mighty Columbia River, and an hour and a half from both the Pacific coast and the scenic and surreal Mt. St. Helens. The town is also home to a number of quality eateries and one of the best breweries in the region, where you can quench your thirst after a day of playing and exploration in the great outdoors.
Soak up Kelso's outdoor vibes
Kelso is defined by the Cowlitz River, which is one of southwestern Washington's great waterways. With its headwaters high on the glaciers of Mt. Rainier, the Cowlitz flows for 105 miles through foothills, forest, and farmland before joining the Columbia River just outside of town.
However, the Cowlitz is more than a pretty natural flow. It is also one of the best fishing rivers in the Pacific Northwest, especially when salmon or steelhead are running. Steelhead — a feisty sea-run rainbow trout particularly sought-after by fishers — can reach sizes of up to 17 pounds on the Cowlitz, and are a great eating fish. This means anglers from all around the region flock to the Cowlitz in hopes of hooking into one of the majestic aquatic specimens.
The nearby Columbia River — which forms much of the border between Oregon and Washington — is also popular with outdoor enthusiasts. The waters are ideal for paddling, with the Lower Columbia Water Trail passing right by town. Birders and other wildlife lovers will want to drive out to Willapa Bay on the coast, where you'll find the town of South Bend, the world's "Oyster Capital," along with Willapa Bay National Wildlife Refuge. This preserve is made up of beautiful tidelands, beaches, forests, and streams, which are home to an impressive number of migratory species. Also, you can't miss a visit to the nearby Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. In addition to taking in the surreal form of the mountain that famously blew her top in 1980, there are hiking trails throughout the park, and if you're feeling extra-adventurous, you can climb to the summit of the volcano and peer into the massive crater, but know that the hike is just as dangerous as it is breathtaking.
Get down with some good eats and craft beer in Kelso
While Kelso certainly can't compete with the food scene in nearby Portland, which boasts tremendous hole-in-the-wall joints beloved by foodies, you'll still find a number of excellent places to tuck into some local fare. For some tasty pies, head to Papa Zuzu's Pizza, a local favorite that has customers raving. "This is some of the best pizza I've ever had! Holds up on day 2 for breakfast," wrote one happy visitor on Google Maps, while another remarked, "Probably the best pizza in the state tbh." Maddalena's Italian Cafe does fresh pastas, sandwiches, and more, while Kerby's Seafood Restaurant will scratch your itch for things like halibut fish and chips, prawns, calamari, and fish tacos. "The [h]alibut here was amazing!" gushed one visitor on Google Maps, giving the restaurant "10 stars!"
This being the Pacific Northwest, it should also come as no surprise that Kelso is home to a top-notch craft brewery in the form of Explorer Brewing Company. This local operation features a nice taproom with an array of good suds on draft. Explorer Brewing Company also enjoys high ratings and great reviews online, with one recent customer on Yelp observing, "Best small town brewery around." This was echoed by another on Google Maps, who wrote, "Amazing selection of beer ... Stop in and give these friendly artisans a try. Friendly, knowledgeable and delicious!" For more of what southwest Washington has to offer, check out Yale Lake, a mountain reservoir between Portland and Mount St. Helens with scenic fishing and paddling.