Canada's 'Gateway To The Wild West Coast' Is A Secluded Shoreside Village With Outdoor Fun And Stunning Wildlife
Sitting just off the coast of British Columbia, Vancouver Island encompasses all the natural wonders that have earned its parent province the slogan of "Beautiful British Columbia," from dramatic mountains and rocky coasts to dense rainforests. It's also big; at over 12,000 square miles, it's North America's largest Pacific Coast island. Due to its sheer size, most visitors spend their time at the southern end, where major cities like Victoria and popular attractions are found. That leaves the northern reaches, especially the hard-to-access west coast, largely untouched. Port Alice is the gateway to that wilderness.
Known as the "Gateway to the Wild West Coast" of Vancouver Island, Port Alice is a remote, small village on the shores of Neroutsos Inlet in Quatsino Sound. This tiny community of around 800 is a springboard for adventurous travelers curious to discover the less-trammeled northwest region. Surrounded by mountains, water, and woods, visitors can freely explore with few, if any, other tourists around. Between kayaking, fishing, boating, camping, and hiking, outdoor adventure runs rampant here. It's also a goldmine for wildlife sightings, from whales and sea lions to bears and bald eagles. And of course, there are the sea otters. These cute critters are so abundant that Port Alice has earned the nickname of "Canada's Sea Otter Capital."
Reaching Port Alice will take some time, requiring a six-hour drive from Victoria or an hour-long flight from Vancouver International Airport to the tiny airport in Port Hardy, followed by a 45-minute drive. Port Alice is also a half-hour drive from Highway 19, which will take you through mountains and forest. It's tucked away at the end of an inlet with only a few other settlements in the area, so it's very much off-the-beaten path. This isn't a place people stumble upon; it's a place they seek out.
Watching out for Port Alice's amazing wildlife
The west coast of Vancouver Island is sea otter central, with places like the dreamy adventure island of Nootka giving you the chance to see them, but Port Alice is undoubtedly the best place. Here, sightings are incredibly common, thanks to an otter community taking up residence close to town. Because otters are one of Port Alice's claims to fame, taking a sea otter tour is a must. Outfitters like Sea Otter Eco Tours offer guided boat tours lasting four or six hours, taking guests out into the inlet and broader Quatsino Sound in search of these furry locals. Plus, you get the chance to look for other marine life, like humpback whales, orcas, and sea lions. Watch the shores for black bears as well.
Sitting along the BC Bird Trail, Port Alice is also a prime place for birdwatching. Bald eagles can be seen year-round, but they are especially active in May for mating season and fall for salmon spawning. Common loons bring their lilting calls to the inlet in the summer, colorful harlequin ducks arrive with the fall foliage, winter proffers red-breasted mergansers and northern pygmy owls, and black oystercatchers and horned grebes herald the start of spring.
The kind of wildlife you hope to see may influence when you want to visit. Sea otters can be seen year-round (although some tour companies, including Sea Otter Eco Tours, only operate seasonally from late spring to early fall). In autumn, the salmon run draws out black bears to streams and rivers, making that a good season for sightings. However, outside of winter hibernation, they're around most of the year. For whales, humpbacks and orcas are year-round residents as well, but sightings are best in summer and fall. Since Port Alice is surrounded by wilderness, hikers and campers should pay attention to wildlife safety regulations, especially when it comes to bears. Make sure to properly store food when camping, and don't feed wild animals.
Finding outdoor fun around Port Alice
Outdoor adventure is a year-round affair in Port Alice, but late spring, summer, and early fall are usually the best times to visit. Summers and the shoulder seasons are sunny, dry, and mild, and most accommodations and tour operators are open. Winters are rainy and dark, with powerful coastal storms, and most Port Alice tour outfitters close up for the season. No matter the season, make sure to pack a pair of binoculars for wildlife-watching, waterproof hiking shoes, layers, and sunscreen.
Start in town with the Seawalk, a flat, paved 1.3-mile waterfront pathway with inlet, islet, and mountain views. Thanks to the shoreside location, it's easy to get out on the water. Rent kayaks or stand-up paddleboards from Paddle North Rentals, or, for those who are scuba-certified, explore under the waves on dives in the clear, serene waters. Boating is a great way to explore Quatsino Sound and the area along the coast, as you can sail to remote spots like the pristine, wildlife-filled Muqin-Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park. Boaters can moor crafts measuring up to 100 feet at the boat-ramp-equipped Rumble Beach Marina.
Saltwater and freshwater fishing is especially popular in these parts. Both types require licenses and following regulations, and options for single- or multiday fishing charters are available through Rumble Beach Fishing Charters and Murrmaid Ventures. On land, hikers can find paths that start in Port Alice, like the moderate 1.7-mile Dyke Walk through the woods around the back of town. Mountain bikers and hikers can race or trek along the forested black diamond Rumble Tumble trail, while those after more leisurely pursuits can practice their swing at Port Alice Heritage Golf Club's nine-hole course. More hiking, fishing, camping, swimming, and kayaking abound in nearby Marble Lake Provincial Park, Alice Lake, and Victoria Lake. After a long day, you can choose between cozy bed-and-breakfasts, inns, campgrounds, and RV parks for overnight stays in Port Alice.