Canada's Once-Thriving Logging Village Is Now A Coastal Beauty With Fishing, Trails, And Local Art
Stretching along the shores of the St. Lawrence River, Quebec's Côte-Nord lures travelers with its whale watching, quaint small towns, and dreamy landscapes of forests, rivers, and waterfalls. One of the best ways to explore the area is by driving Highway 138, a famous coastal road trip route that's so renowned for its whale-spotting opportunities, it's earned the nickname of the Whale Route. Along the way, drivers have the chance to spot whales swimming out in the water, marvel at natural landmarks like the Saguenay Fjord, and pause in charming villages along the way. One of those communities is Rivière-Pentecôte.
Located on the banks of the St. Lawrence, Rivière-Pentecôte is a quaint village located where the river from which it takes its name meets the St. Lawrence. Once upon a time, the area was home to the Indigenous Innu people. Then, in 1875, a mission opened up. For a spell, the village was part of the thriving logging boom that consumed that part of the coast, with Rivière-Pentecôte and other nearby communities like Port-Cartier serving as timber towns. Today, though, the village (now part of the larger Port-Cartier township) has outgrown its logging roots to become a lovely coastal getaway. Many traveling Route 138 pause to take in the lovely waterfront, but there's also fishing, hiking, beaches, historic sites, a co-op grocery store that's locally renowned for its baked goods, and a cozy bed-and-breakfast that often shows off local artwork.
Rivière-Pentecôte does take a bit of effort to reach, though. From Quebec City, it's a 6.5-hour drive up to the coast. If you don't want to do such a long drive, you can fly into the small Sept-Îles Airport (YZV), which is an hour and 15 minutes northeast by car. Since the village is part of a larger township, it's also worth visiting the area to explore this string of communities, including the namesake town of Port-Cartier, which has its own art scene and outdoor adventures.
Enjoying Rivière-Pentecôte's outdoor fun on water and on land
Home to peninsulas, forests, beaches, and lovely views across the St. Lawrence toward the verdant Gaspé Peninsula, Rivière-Pentecôte's beautiful scenery is one of the town's crown jewels. So much so, there's a popular viewpoint near the mouth of the river for taking in the coastal scenery. Located in a waterfront park, a wooden platform, enclosed by fencing and set with picnic tables, provides a scenic spot to take in the tableau.
This area is good for more than sightseeing; it's also a great place to go fishing. Anglers can drop in their lines at the public quay and try their luck hooking sea trout. There's a boat ramp as well for those who prefer to get out on the water. Inland, the tranquil waters of Lac Pentecôte also draw anglers with its trout fishing opportunities. Roughly 25 minutes up the coast, Port-Cartier (part of the larger township) is another fishing hub, with salmon fishing on the Aux Rochers River from June through September and ample trout in the lake-dotted Réserve faunique de Port-Cartier-Sept-Îles. A fishing license is required, and fishing for Atlantic salmon requires its own separate license.
Rivière-Pentecôte is equally lovely to explore on foot via its scenic trails. This is not a major hiking destination; paths here are generally flat and short, intended more for appreciating the scenery than getting in a big workout. According to Auberge du Nord-Côtier, a charming bed-and-breakfast, the forested Sentier du Patrimoine de Rivière-Pentecôte path around the village's historic Saint-Patrice Church and Sainte-Anne chapel, which also visits the cemetery, is an especially nice walk for learning about the region's history and admiring the lovely buildings. The town's beaches also make for idyllic strolls, with the added bonus of sighting whale spouts and birds. Baie de l'Anse is one of the most accessible and popular spots. While out walking, the inn recommends keeping an eye out for seasonal berries, mushrooms, and other wild-growing goodies. You can also find manmade treats for your outing at the Dépanneur Le Riverin co-op convenience store; the baked goods in particular have a local following.
Diving into Rivière-Pentecôte's artistic offerings
Rivière-Pentecôte may be known for beautiful coastal scenery and outdoor adventure, but it's not the only reason to visit. In addition to giving travelers a cozy place to stay overnight while exploring the area, the Auberge Du Nord-Côtier bed-and-breakfast is also an art hub. The b&b often hosts temporary exhibits showcasing the work of area artists, as well as live performances. You're likely to find artwork adorning the guest rooms as well.
If you'd like to dive deeper into the Port-Cartier township's art scene, head north to Port-Cartier, which has its own thriving creative streak. Central to this scene is Café-théâtre Graffiti, a popular performing arts venue on one of the town's bay islands that hosts local and touring acts. Along with live performances like music, plays, and comedy bits, the venue also showcases films. There's also a walkable path through the woods lined with public artwork, and, in winter, the Festival Blizz'Art, where competitors use snow to sculpt detailed, life-sized snow sculptures.
Rivière-Pentecôte and the larger Port-Cartier township are just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what this stretch of coast has to offer, which is why it's such a popular road trip destination. When planning a trip to the area, include a day or two in Rivière-Pentecôte as part of a larger itinerary traversing the region, which can include stops in other quaint towns like the friendly city of Baie-Comeau, touring historic sites like the Musée Louis-Langlois to learn more about the region, and, of course, plenty of whale watching along the Whale Route.