One Of New England's Only Amish Communities Is A Vermont Day Trip With A Historic Village And Quiet Charm
The large Amish communities of Pennsylvania and Ohio have long been the go-to spots for travelers who want to experience their unique culture. However, these aren't the only places where you might share the road with a horse-drawn buggy. All told, there are more than 700 Amish settlements in the Americas, spanning 33 U.S. states and areas of Canada, Mexico, and Bolivia. While there are about 26,000 Amish in New York and around 1,300 in Maine, the New England states between them didn't have any communities until 2015, when the first families started to settle in Vermont's Orleans County. A decade later, this small but growing settlement has made the town of Brownington the heart of Vermont's Amish Country.
It's easy to see why Brownington attracted Amish attention. This rural town of about 1,000 people has been a farming village since it was established in the late 18th century. Its location along the Willoughby River, combined with the area's verdant fields and forests, gives the region some of Vermont's most picturesque scenery. It's also far removed from any major urban areas, located about a half-hour's drive south of Vermont's border with Canada, making it the ideal setting for the kind of live-off-the-land lifestyle the Amish practice. These same qualities are a draw for visitors looking for a peaceful place to escape the frenetic pace of city life.
Exploring historic Brownington
Brownington wasn't always an out-of-the-way destination. In its early years, the village was along the stagecoach route between Boston and Canada. Orleans County's first road, the Hinman Settler road that connected Greensboro and Derby, passed through Brownington, too. As a result, it was one of the region's transportation and economic centers, until railroad lines laid in the mid-19th century drew people elsewhere.
Visitors can see multiple buildings from this early era in the Brownington Historic District. The oldest, the Rice & Going Hotel, was built in 1815. The Historic Village also includes the home of Alexander Twilight, who lived in Brownington from 1829 until his death in 1857. During that time, he served as the principal of the Orleans County Grammar School and pastor of the Brownington Congregational Church, both of which are also preserved in the Historic Village. Twilight was also elected to represent the area in the Vermont General Assembly in 1836, making him the first Black member of a state legislature in the United States.
At the heart of the Historic Village is the Old Stone House. It was built in 1836 as a dormitory for the Orleans County Grammar School and was converted into a museum in 1925, a role it still serves today. Visitors can book a guided tour of the museum to see artifacts from across Orleans County. Tours are offered on Wednesday through Sunday during the open season, which usually runs from mid-May through mid-October. The rest of the Historic Village is accessible year-round and free to explore. The online walking tour brochure has information on the village's buildings, and you can learn more from the interpretive signs along the Twilight Education Trail that starts in the parking lot of the Alexander Twilight House.
Planning your trip to Brownington
Brownington is well off the beaten path, and the closest cities with major airports are the lakeside college city of Burlington, about two hours' drive southwest, and Montreal, about 2.5 hours northwest. On the plus side, the drive to reach Brownington is an attraction in its own right, especially if you come in along Route 100, a scenic drive known as "Vermont's Main Street." It's also within reach of other Vermont destinations, whether you want to check out the fall colors in Stowe or visit ski resorts like Smugglers' Notch and Jay Peak.
The main downside to being off the typical tourist thoroughfares is that there aren't any hotels right in Brownington. There are places to stay nearby, though, if you want to extend your visit beyond a day trip. Around Lake Willoughby, a breathtaking glacial lake about 6 miles southeast of Brownington, you'll find year-round options like WilloughVale Inn and Cottages, a charming lakeside retreat located on a historic property where Robert Frost's family stayed in the early 20th century. In the warmer months, you can also stay at the Will-O-Wood Campground, which has spaces for both tent and RV camping.
As far as when to visit Brownington, summer and early fall are the best seasons to explore the Historic Village, when the museum is open and the weather is warm enough to enjoy a hike on the Twilight Education Trail. The Old Stone House also holds events like the annual Fiber Faire in September, which features vendors and demonstrations of crafts like quilting, knitting, embroidery and basketry. You can check the online events calendar to see if anything on the upcoming schedule aligns with your interests.