A Helpful Hidden Mountain Passage In Glacier National Park Offers Breathtaking Alpine Views
Although the U.S. has no monarchy, the fact that Glacier National Park is christened the "Crown of the Continent" for its unmatched beauty shows a high regard for the national park. Sweeping vistas of the glacially carved Rocky Mountains, along with the rivers, forests, and marshes that rest in their basins, raise Glacier National Park to a league of its own. With scene-stealers like the Highline Trail and Going-to-the-Sun Road (one of America's most epic mountainous highways), some might argue this national park has too many grand views to choose from, especially in a single visit. This is why, in the 1930s, public works constructed the Ptarmigan Tunnel to assist hikers (and horseback riders) keen to see more of the park's northern expanse.
Blasted by dynamite through the Ptarmigan Wall — a steep, difficult to navigate, glacier-carved ridge that divides the Many Glacier and Belly River valleys, the tunnel allows both hikers and horse riders to access two outstanding areas, seeing twice as many glaciers, lakes, and glacier-carved landscapes in a single trip. While not well known to most park visitors, the trail to Ptarmigan Tunnel is a must-do for seasoned hikers capable of strenuous climbs. According to one review from Tripadvisor, the sights you'll see produce "a real Rocky Mountain high."
How to hike to (and through) the Ptarmigan Tunnel
The route to Ptarmigan Tunnel begins from the Iceberg-Ptarmigan Trailhead near the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn's parking lot in Many Glacier Valley. The out-and-back distance is approximately 10.6 miles with over 2,300 feet of elevation gain, making the hike challenging but rewarding. Along the way to the pass, you'll traverse alpine meadows and forests, with the chance to see moose, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and even grizzly bears. After 2.7 miles of mostly gentle incline, the path forks near Ptarmigan Falls (which, sadly, are mostly obscured by trees). Take the right path to continue en route; the left will take you to Iceberg Lake — an excellent place to stop and refresh on your way back down.
The path's difficulty revs up over the next 2.6 miles, passing around and above Ptarmigan Lake by crossing the massive glacier-carved basin that surrounds it. You can choose to take a side trail that descends to the lake's shoreline, a perfect spot for a snack break (if you haven't already taken one). Otherwise, you'll continue up a series of switchbacks ascending to Ptarmigan Wall and reaching a set of double iron doors. Ahead lies Ptarmigan Tunnel.
The tunnel is 240 feet long and is only open from July to September, depending on park conditions and the weather. While it's easy enough to see through the tunnel on a bright day, you may need a flashlight or headlamp. Emerging on the other side reveals dramatic views over the Belly River Valley and Elizabeth Lake. If you wish to extend your adventure, the trail does continue down through the valley to where several lakeside campgrounds await. Otherwise, turn back around, take in the equally impressive views of Ptarmigan Valley you've now earned, and begin your descent back to where you started.
What else to see and do in Glacier National Park
Glacier National Park has tons of other hikes through diverse terrain, both famous and off-the-beaten-path. Sitting right up top, the Highline Trail is its most strenuous, adrenaline-pumping, and arguably its prettiest, following the ridgeline of the Continental Divide. There's also the wildly popular (and significantly easier) Avalanche Lake Trail, low in the forests of West Glacier. For less-crowded treks, you'll have to up the difficulty rating. Inexperienced hikers ought to avoid the iconic Grinnell Glacier Trail, as it includes loose, sheer terrain along with ice or mud, even in the summer. The Huckleberry Lookout Trail has great views and great snacks growing in the bushlands lining its mellower pathway in late summer — just stay wary of the park's hungry grizzlies.
To travel between the Many Glacier and West Glacier sides of the park (or when your legs are tired), take the Going-to-the-Sun Road and enjoy that awestruck feeling of soaring among the mountains. While Many Glacier has more epic hiking (including the Ptarmigan Tunnel Trail), West Glacier offers more lodging options and activities for families, like rafting, boat tours on Lake McDonald, and even mini golf. You'll also have more consistent cell service and access to dining and shopping on the west side, just be prepared for a more crowded experience.
Both sides are equally scenic, and depending on when you visit, you may see wildflowers in bloom from June to July, berries on bushes from August to September, or the beginning of fall colors in September. Just know that some parts of Glacier National Park require timed entry reservations from June 13 through September 28, and remember that the tunnel through Ptarmigan Wall is only open from mid-July through September 30.