Italy's Rolling Hills Cradle An Ancient Village Of Cobblestone Charm, Wildflowers, And Open Skies

About a third of Italy is wooded. While many travelers have heard of the unparalleled fall foliage views in the Piedmont region or the ancient beech trees on the Gargano Peninsula in the country's most biodiverse forest, fewer are familiar with the Salto Plateau, home to the largest expanse of larch trees in Europe. The village of San Genesio, just north of Bolzano in South Tyrol, is the perfect base for exploring this scenic landscape. 

The hilltop town is small, with a population of around 3,000 people, and its cobblestone streets and pretty squares are a pleasure to explore on foot. Visitors can stop into the parish church, across the square from the picturesque city hall. But the main attraction here is the surrounding scenery. Thanks to San Genesio's elevated position and proximity to the Dolomites, you can take in breathtaking views — framed by wide skies and colorful wildflowers when in season — from many points around the village. If you're interested in exploring more of this region, check out this Dolomites getaway where "Austria Meets Italy," according to Rick Steves.

Encircling San Genesio is a lush patchwork of farmland and rolling meadows where cows and horses graze. Indeed, the village is known as the place of origin for a particular breed of "blonde" Haflinger horses, which are still commonly spotted in the region. In spring, the hillsides are an explosion of color as alpine wildflowers like gentian blossom and edelweiss begin to bloom. It's the ideal time of year to explore the hiking and mountain biking paths that crisscross the region. In winter, the mountain ridges are blanketed in snow, and nearby ski resorts have slopes covered in fresh powder. World-class ski centers like Merano 2000 are less than an hour away by car. 

You can also appreciate the beautiful surrounding landscapes without leaving the area. Several local restaurants, including the ones at Hotel & Gasthof zum Hirschen and the upscale Hotel Belvedere – Fine Dining, Hideaway & SPA, have open-air seating on large terraces overlooking the mountains and meadows below. While in this part of Italy, consider a side trip to an elegant wellness destination in one of Italy's most underrated mountain towns.

San Genesio is located just outside of Bolzano, a 15-minute drive north of the city. It's possible to make the same journey by local bus (about 30 minutes). Bolzano has a regional airport, and a larger international airport is in Venice (two hours and 45 minutes by car, or 4.5 hours using public transportation). It's easy to access hiking and cycling trails directly from San Genesio — it's not necessary to have a car — and you can rent a bike in Bolzano. 

There's a good selection of lodgings in San Genesio, including Gasthof Jenesien (around $298 per night), Hotel König Laurin ($269 per night), and the pricier Hotel Saltus (upwards of $400 per night). In addition to a range of restaurants, many with views, San Genesio has several food shops, supermarkets, and bakeries, convenient if you're packing a picnic for a day out exploring. Road-tripping through the region? Don't miss a stop at this unique natural phenomenon that seems to defy gravity.