Wisconsin's Growing Milwaukee Suburb Blends A Rich Blues Legacy With Hikes, River Walks, And A Vibrant Downtown

To the casual observer, Wisconsin might be better known for white bread than the blues. That soulful sound is widely attributed to Black Americans in Southern states like Mississippi — often referred to as the home of the blues — and certainly not the Midwest state better known for lakes and cheese, or at least as the hometown of beloved indie crooner Bon Iver, who hails from Eau Claire, aka the "indie capital of the Midwest." But across the state, a small town called Grafton has a deep connection to this distinctly American blues music, and it's all thanks to chairs. Please, seat yourself for story time.

According to lore, the Wisconsin Chair Company, headquartered near Grafton, created promotional music to help sell its pricey phonograph cabinets. In 1917, the chair company launched a record label, Paramount Records, and sent sales representatives all over the country to scout musicians. By 1929, Paramount had built its Grafton studio and brought artists to town to record. The label first experimented with classical and country music, but found greater success in the blues. An estimated 1,600 blues musicians recorded for Paramount, including future legends such as Louis Armstrong, Mai Rainey, and Charley Patton, later known as "the Father of the Delta Blues."

Yet Grafton was never destined to be another Motown. The Great Depression forced Paramount closed its operations in 1935. Today, little remains of this unique blues legacy. You won't find music museums and historic homes like those along the melodious Arkansas Delta blues trail – even the original recording studio was demolished in 1938. Still, Grafton's a fun detour from Milwaukee, with a charming riverfront, Great Lakes hiking, and breweries. Downtown, historic Paramount Plaza displays a blues-themed granite fountain and a Walk of Fame designed to look like piano keys, honoring the town's unexpected blues legacy.

Grafton is in Ozaukee County, affectionately nicknamed "Oz," just 22 miles north of Milwaukee, an affordable, lakeside gem with breweries and beaches and just a few miles south of Shipwreck Coast National Marine Sanctuary, where some of the Great Lakes' best-preserved shipwrecks lie. It's located right off Interstate 43, a popular north-south corridor along the expansive shores of Lake Michigan, making it an attractive and growing suburb for anyone wanting close access to Milwaukee without the traffic. Its trails, nature preserves, and Milwaukee River, which flows through the community, make it a popular day trip for city residents. Technically, Grafton has the feel of a small town (it's technically a village) with extra charm.

One of the most appealing spots in Grafton is the Lion's Den Gorge Nature Preserve, a 73-acre stretch of undeveloped bluffs 90 to 100 feet above Lake Michigan that the county calls an "ecological jewel." The preserve extends from Mequon to Port Washington and borders a wetland where you can stroll the boardwalks and watch for birds. Several hiking trails wind through the preserve, including the Lion's Den Trail, which follows the bluffs and offers scenic vistas overlooking the lake, with stairs that descend to the beach. Pack a picnic; there are plenty of spots to relax with a view.

The paved Ozaukee Interurban is another draw for cyclists, skaters, and strollers. The 30-mile route connects Milwaukee County's Oak Leaf Trail to Sheboygan's Plank Road Trail and links to the Eisenbahn State Trail in Washington County. The path travels through wetlands, farmland, urban skylines, woodlands, and Lake Michigan vistas. It's also part of the Great Wisconsin Birding and Nature Trail and a landing pad for migratory birds.

Downtown Grafton is worth a stroll, if only to see the Walk of Fame designed to resemble piano keys. Start at the Grafton Library or the Chamber of Commerce to grab a pamphlet for a self-guided tour of the town's blues-era historic sites. Eat at the recently rebranded 13th North, formerly Milwaukee Ale House, a local lunch and dinner favorite serving Wisconsin classics like cheese curds, steak tips, and Bavarian pretzels with a riverfront view. Nearby, Sahale Ale Works offers creative brews and THC-infused beverages, along with food trucks Thursday through Sunday. Water Street Brewery has a location in Grafton, serving up its own beers on tap and sells them in cans. Try the Honey Lager Light, a house beer brewed with local Wisconsin honey, and take home a six-pack. Bottle Shop of Grafton doubles as a  coffee and cocktail space downtown where you can sip on-site or grab something to go.

The Milwaukee River flows right through Grafton, where recent efforts have improved water quality and restored native vegetation along the shoreline. Along its banks, Veterans Memorial Park is a quiet place to hang out, stroll, or fish. Kayak rentals kayaks are available for $25 for up to two hours, as of this writing. 

If you visit Grafton in September, chances are you might be able to attend the free, annual Thiensville Blues Fest: Blues, Bikes, and Brews, (formerly "Best Dam Blues" festival) in nearby Thiensville. It's one of the area's last remaining tributes to the blues and features Wisconsin-themed events such as a beard contest and beer tastings.