Forget Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Visit This Old-Growth Forest For Scenic Hiking And Fewer Crowds

In the forest-covered and mountainous corner of western North Carolina, bordering Tennessee, lie two of the top three most visited sites in the entire National Park Service system: Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) and Blue Ridge Parkway. There are some truly breathtaking hikes in GSMNP, but those high visitation numbers also mean crowds nearly year-round. GSMNP doesn't have an entrance fee or timed entry reservations like other overcrowded national parks, but it did introduce a small parking fee in 2023 to try to curb crowds. Total visits have decreased each year since, but it's still the most visited national park. Crowds are nearly impossible to escape. The good news is that GSMNP is not the only nationally protected public land in this region. Head 1.5 hours west from GSMNP's southern entrance station and explore Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest instead for similar mountain views and hiking trails with fewer crowds.

Don't get it wrong: Kilmer Memorial Forest is still popular with those in the know, but it's not circling-the-parking-lot-for-hours-to-get-a-spot popular like GSMNP. In the grand scheme of things, it has the same weather, same seasons, and similar views as you'd get inside GSMNP. This 3,800-acre old-growth forest is dedicated to a World War I soldier and poet, Joyce Kilmer. While much of the surrounding forests were logged in the early 1900s, this section of forest was spared. Many of its trees are estimated to be between 300 and 400 years old. The enormous tulip poplars are a favorite for photo ops, and there are several scenic hiking trails to choose from. Forget the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and choose Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest instead.

The easiest and most popular trail in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest is the Memorial Loop Trail. It's a moderately easy two-mile loop trail (with some stairs) that makes a figure eight around a memorial plaque to poet Joyce Kilmer. Choose between the Lower Loop and the Upper Loop, or finish the figure eight for the full two-mile loop.

While the Memorial Loop Trail is an exception, the majority of the trails inside Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness Area are strenuous. The Lower Loop Trail connects to the Naked Ground Trail, another very strenuous hike that connects to other National Forest trails and leads to the Naked Ground backpacking camp. The Jenkins Meadow Trail is a little over three miles, moderate difficulty, and starts from a parking area near the Memorial Forest entrance road. Don't let the name fool you, though. The forest reclaimed the meadow long ago.

If you're looking for a challenge like GSMNP's popular Mount LeConte trail for experienced hikers, try Kilmer Memorial Forest's Slickrock Creek Trail instead. The Slickrock Creek Trail is rated one of the top 10 toughest trails in the United States. It's 13.3 miles long with 3,700 feet of elevation gain and up to 13 stream crossings, depending on the season and precipitation levels. This trail is not for inexperienced hikers. Even advanced backpackers frequently get momentarily lost on sections of this trail as there are no blazes, just trail signs at intersections. It makes it difficult to discern between the official trail, old trails, unofficial side trails, and animal-made paths. Bring a map and compass or a satellite GPS system. Your phone's GPS is not good enough.

You'll need a car to get to this peaceful forest oasis, but beware of the route you choose to get here. The drive from Knoxville's McGhee Tyson Airport (TYS) to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest is 1.5 hours, but the last half of that gets into windy, serpentine mountain roads that could be tough on those who suffer from motion sickness in cars. The stretch of U.S. 129 roughly between Tapoco, North Carolina, and Chilhowee, Tennessee, is a particularly nauseating route known as The Tail of the Dragon. It's got 318 curves in 11 or so miles and is popular with motorcyclists and sports car enthusiasts who love to rush around the curves. It's another story if you're in a minivan. Unfortunately, it's also the fastest route to the forest if you're coming from Knoxville.

An alternative but slightly longer route is the Cherohala Skyway, starting in Tellico Plains and ending in Robbinsville. This National Scenic Byway is like a shorter Blue Ridge Parkway with similar beautiful mountain overlooks and hiking opportunities along the route. Enjoy spring blooms and fall leaves with smaller crowds and access to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest at the Robbinsville end of the Skyway.

For food and lodging, Robbinsville is the closest town, about 25 minutes from the parking area for the Memorial Forest Loop Trail. The town offers a variety of fast food and restaurants and a collection of motels and vacation rentals, but not many chain hotels or restaurants. Campgrounds are scattered throughout the region, ranging from primitive sites at Horse Cove Campground to group sites with showers at Rattler Ford Group Campground. Staying in Knoxville's bustling downtown is an option if you don't mind a long drive back after a day of hiking in the forest.