Between San Angelo And Austin Is A Small Texas Town With Nostalgic Charm, Biking Trails, And Fishing

One of the most soulful spots in Texas Hill Country is a tiny town brimming with historic charm. Castell, Texas, is surrounded by nature and recreation, nestled on the bank of a river leaping with fish, with bike routes through countryside that's taken over by endless fields of stunning bluebonnets in the spring. The town was founded in the 1840s by German immigrant "freethinkers," a progressive group that opposed slavery and monarchy. These idealistic farmers founded several other towns in the region, but Castell is the only one that remains today. Small but mighty, Castell's star is on the rise as a destination, with a classic general store serving as a community hub, a hip new gallery, and the scenic Llano River for summer recreation.

Situated around 100 miles northeast of Austin, Castell is a perfect road trip stop-off or weekend destination. For an overnight, the Leifeste Campground is a private riverside oasis and is a popular stop with kayakers, bikers, and road-trippers. "If you're looking for a great [getaway] in a peaceful beautiful spot, look no further! This spot on the river is a piece of heaven!" writes one Google reviewer. If roughing it outdoors isn't your style, there are numerous private vacation rentals in the area, ranging from a 1912 farmhouse to a log cabin. Book one of the rustic yet luxurious riverside Castell Cabins, and you can rent a bike for your stay and explore gravel biking, which is taking the area by storm. The Castell General Store rents kayaks (with a shuttle for your return) so you can fish on the crystal clear Llano River, or just float on by.

Less than 20 miles from Mason, aka "gem of the Hill Country," tiny Castell is busy making a name for itself. The charming Castell General Store is the vibrant hub driving the town's resurgence. Co-owner Randy Leifeste, a descendant of the town's German founders and cousin to the Leifeste Campground owners, runs the store with his son and other family members. Largely on the strength of Leifeste's outgoing personality (and some excellent barbecue), the Castell General Store has been garnering attention, with profiles in Texas Highways and Texas Monthly. You can hang out for the afternoon, eating, pitching washers (a lawn game similar to cornhole), and knocking back a few cold ones.

While the Texas Hill Country town of Bandera is known as the "Cowboy Capital of the World," tiny Castell is staking its reputation on a year-round slate of fun festivals. The town's burgeoning schedule includes a 4th of July White Trash Bash, an annual chili cook-off in February, a BBQ cook-off in October, a gumbo cook-off in December, and the event of the year, the Testicle Festival in May, a time-honored Texas tradition of throwing a party centered around the consumption of fried, well, you-know-whats.

Adding to the cultural cachet of this growing enclave is the Castell Hill Country Gallery. A recent show by artist Diego Miró-Rivera was a room-sized abstract sculpture titled Poncho, made entirely out of native grasses. As the artist posted on Instagram, the artwork is intended to be eaten by local cows at the exhibit's conclusion.

Cyclists fond of "gravel grinding," or riding bikes on unpaved backroads, are flocking to Castell these days to bike routes beginning and ending at the Castell General Store. Every spring since 2014, the Castell Grind has been an event that brings hordes of happy riders to town. 

Weekend bikepackers can tackle the two-day, 66-mile Texas Hill Country Overnighter, a route that boasts fishing in the Llano River, a dinner stop at the Castell General Store, and overnighting at the Leifeste Campground. For novice riders, the 14.9-mile Llano River Loop (per AllTrails) is a perfect introductory bike ride to the area, with stunning river views. "Perfect dirt track and a nice cool river to jump into after the loop! Great for every level," writes one rider on AllTrails.

If you're road-tripping back to Austin after a visit to the charming wild west river town of San Angelo, Castell makes for a perfect afternoon pit stop for cooling river recreation. You can rent a kayak for a leisurely afternoon paddle down the Llano, and throw a line out to fish for some of the river's famous Guadalupe Bass (the state fish of Texas). Largemouth bass, catfish, and sunfish can also be caught here, and the Leifeste family has also been known to stock the river with rainbow trout. If you're among the fishing-curious, you can sign up for an introductory "Try the Fly" class with Rio Llano Outfitters while you're in town. Who knows, you might get hooked.